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    Putting on a new clutch

    I am going to be doing a clutch job soon. I am not sure what else I should replace while I'm in there. Here's what I have so far:

    Pressure plate
    Clutch disc
    Release bearing
    Pilot bearing
    Pilot bearing cap and felt seal
    Flywheel bolts
    Pressure plate bolts
    Trans mounts
    I'll be getting the flywheel resurfaced as well.


    So, what am I missing?

    #2
    Master, slave, hose & pivot pin.
    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
    Alice the Time Capsule
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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      #3
      And a rear main seal.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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        #4
        Thanks guys.

        Is that it? Anything else?

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          #5
          Is the rear main seal necessary? If mine isn't leaking should I still replace it? Also, I hear the seal with the spring is the way to go.

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            #6
            Originally posted by jaywood View Post
            Is the rear main seal necessary? If mine isn't leaking should I still replace it? Also, I hear the seal with the spring is the way to go.
            If you aren't removing the flywheel and there is no signs of oil on the back of the flywheel or behind it, the seal might be okay. How much longer it will last is an open question. The smart thing to do is to replace seal. I don't remember what the current OE part from a dealer is like, but that is the right part to use.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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              #7
              I will be using the seal that comes factory. It should be the one with the spring. The seal with no spring is the updated version and I have read it leaks.

              What are the tips and tricks to replacing the rear main seal?

              Do I need a new throw out bearing as well?
              Last edited by jaywood; 08-26-2012, 04:41 PM.

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                #8
                Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                Master, slave, hose & pivot pin.
                master/slave/hose seems a bit overkill.

                You will want a new throw out bearing. sometimes they come with the clutches, as do pilot bearings sometimes. Also, think about the pivot spring, and possibly fork.

                Make sure to lube the input shaft.

                Consider a CSB too, if you take out the driveshaft and it's shot. Don't forget exhaust gaskets/replacement hangers(if you need them) since you'll be taking it down as well.

                Before you get the flywheel surfaced(and after) check for minimum thickness.
                '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jaywood View Post
                  Do I need a new throw out bearing as well?
                  You said release bearing already, its the same thing

                  I would add release fork, pivot bushing and pivot spring too

                  And I would add new trans seals (input, output and shift) and fluid unless already fresh. Maybe consider shifter bushings too, likewise unless they are fresh as well

                  The master/slave cylinders are pretty easy to change with the trans in the car, so I wouldn't replace them if they are working fine otherwise.

                  Sent from my Vortex
                  1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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                    #10
                    Tips on replacing rear main seal?

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by jaywood View Post
                      Tips on replacing rear main seal?
                      screw driver to take it out, rubber mallet is how I put mine in.
                      '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                      NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                      Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

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                        #12
                        Did you get the sprung replacement? Is it leaking at all?

                        Did you get a new gasket for the rear crank cover as well? Paper or metal?

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by jaywood View Post
                          Did you get the sprung replacement? Is it leaking at all?

                          Did you get a new gasket for the rear crank cover as well? Paper or metal?
                          I'm M10... but pretty sure it was sprung. I didn't touch a gasket for a crank cover.

                          edit: oh yeah, no leaks that I see.
                          '84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
                          NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
                          Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Ok. I'll try out the OEM paper gasket. I mine as well get it. I won't use it if I don't need it.


                            If anyone else has any tips on the RMS I would love to hear them! The car is a '90 325i

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                              #15
                              Anyone else?

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