Clicking from rear-end

[Zacharilla]

Sorry to revive an OLD thread, but was it your differential that was clicking? I have same problem and need to do "the fix".

[jjc034]

Did anyone ever figure this out? I refreshed my entire rear end after the subframe diff mount broke away (turbo M52 problems):
- new reinforced subframe
- reinforced trailing arms
- raised 80a poly subframe/diff bushing (using studs and spacers) & 75D RTABS
- Guibo & CSB
- Rear wheels bearings (FAG not a crappy aftermarket brand)

None of my brake pistons are frozen, I've lubricated all pins, and I've put new hardware on my parking brake shoes.

I get a terrible clicking noise from the rear under decel and coasting. May not be able to hear it on acceleration because my car is loud. Doesn't sound like thunking into underbody (similar to a worn CSB) and no vibrations are felt.

Sounds like cards in a bike spoke. Axles have no rips nor grease coming out of boots, but they look to be original.

I will say that my old CSB was destroyed once the rear two diff bolts separated from the subframe due to the movement.

Do you think that may have cause damage to the diff and axles?

Hoping someone would be able to share their solution if they've dealt with this before!

Thanks,
John

[reelizmpro]

Check the CV joints on the axles. Jack the rear of the car up and observe the CV joints while turning the wheels by hand. I had the same problem after installing rebuilt axles. Turned out there wasn't enough lubricant in the boot and the inner joints started binding/popping after only a few miles. Don't guess at the problem and change the diff bushing and diff like I did. Get under the car and find the problem.

[jjc034]

Check the CV joints on the axles. Jack the rear of the car up and observe the CV joints while turning the wheels by hand. I had the same problem after installing rebuilt axles. Turned out there wasn't enough lubricant in the boot and the inner joints started binding/popping after only a few miles. Don't guess at the problem and change the diff bushing and diff like I did. Get under the car and find the problem.

Hi reelizmpro I have checked the CVs. In gear there does not seem to be any inner nor outer joint play when I grab the middle of the shaft and twist forward/backward. While there isn't play when holding the axle, there definitely is a decent amount of backlash when turning wheel forward/backward on stands.

Maybe CVs are going and I just can't feel through typical "grab & turn" tests - do you think this is possible? Is it best just to buy some new axles from FCP?

One additional thing: when the axles were off of the car, one side was definitely easier to move around than the other, which was rather stiff.

[jjc034]

Replaced diff fluid last night. No noticeable metal particles and diff seems to be in good shape. I'm 99% convinced it's axles and will just take the plunge in getting new ones from FCPEuro Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[reelizmpro]

Replaced diff fluid last night. No noticeable metal particles and diff seems to be in good shape. I'm 99% convinced it's axles and will just take the plunge in getting new ones from FCPEuro Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

When I turned the wheels by hand, the inner CV's would "pop" at random times. It didn't do it consistently on every rotation. Since mine were newly rebuilt, I didn't want to believe they were the culprit yet they were and the problem went away when I swapped in another set of rebuilt axles. New ones from FCP sound like a great idea except you'd have to ship them back if one goes bad. For that reason, I prefer local rebuilds. Also, be prepared to get a v-file to file the splines down a bit aka "clean up the splines" so they fit the hubs.

[jjc034]

When I turned the wheels by hand, the inner CV's would "pop" at random times. It didn't do it consistently on every rotation. Since mine were newly rebuilt, I didn't want to believe they were the culprit yet they were and the problem went away when I swapped in another set of rebuilt axles. New ones from FCP sound like a great idea except you'd have to ship them back if one goes bad. For that reason, I prefer local rebuilds. Also, be prepared to get a v-file to file the splines down a bit aka "clean up the splines" so they fit the hubs.

Luckily I live 30mins from FCP so the warranty is definitely not a problem. I'll report back once I get them and install.

I'm not getting any clicking when I turned by hand or when the car is run on jack stands, only if there's load on the wheels.

[15Michaeljoseph]

I'm sure you already checked it, but how is your E-Brake hardware? Considering you live near FCP (like me!) I'd assume your car isn't rust free, and the e-brake retaining springs like to pull through the backing plates when they get rusty. Once they pop loose, they cause all sorts of weird sounds when driving. Get the GKN axles. I just bought a pair for my upcoming subframe restoration and they seem excellent Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[jjc034]

I'm sure you already checked it, but how is your E-Brake hardware? Considering you live near FCP (like me!) I'd assume your car isn't rust free, and the e-brake retaining springs like to pull through the backing plates when they get rusty. Once they pop loose, they cause all sorts of weird sounds when driving. Get the GKN axles. I just bought a pair for my upcoming subframe restoration and they seem excellent Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

Pulling parking brake up at speed makes no difference with sound unfortunately. All new brake hardware minus pads. Surprisingly my car's body is in phenomenal shape minus dings and beat up two stage metallic paint. I thought about buying the Porsche cv kit for a hot second, but it's better just to get fully new axles because I don't know if that would even fix it Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

[15Michaeljoseph]

Pulling parking brake up at speed makes no difference with sound unfortunately. All new brake hardware minus pads. Surprisingly my car's body is in phenomenal shape minus dings and beat up two stage metallic paint. I thought about buying the Porsche cv kit for a hot second, but it's better just to get fully new axles because I don't know if that would even fix it Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I think that's the right move. If one of the axles is bad enough to make a clicking noise, rebuilding/re-booting isn't going to fix the issue with the same worn internals. FCP's lifetime warranty can't be beat either lol.

[reelizmpro]

I think that's the right move. If one of the axles is bad enough to make a clicking noise, rebuilding/re-booting isn't going to fix the issue with the same worn internals. FCP's lifetime warranty can't be beat either lol.

It's great that you're local to FCP. Takes the headache out of having to box, ship and wait for a replacement.

[15Michaeljoseph]

It's great that you're local to FCP. Takes the headache out of having to box, ship and wait for a replacement.

It's far enough that I usually only go there when they have enthusiast events going on, but absolutely. If you need to get the part sooner, they actually also give you the option of re-purchasing whatever you need, then sending back the old one for reimbursement once they receive it. Cool place. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk