HELP - Stuck In Reverse

[cutsham]

Shifter has been hard to shift into reverse, and sometimes will not engage. Today it took a few more tries than usual, but got into reverse and backed out of the driveway. When I went to shift into first, the lever went into what looked like neutral, but when i let out the clutch I was still in reverse.

Searched on the forums and checked under the car. Managed to stick my phone above the tranny and take some pics.


Comparing the picture to this diagram:http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...68&hg=25&fg=05
it looks like #2 (bearing sleeve) worn down enough so the #1 shifting arm slipped off?

[jlevie]

The picture doesn't show enough to tell what is going on. Get the car up in the air and check out the shift linkage. And replace the output and selector shaft seals as it looks like they are leaking.

[cutsham]

You're right about one of the seals.

Can anyone explain a good way to loosen the mounts and tilt the engine and trans down a few inches so I can get to it?

[jlevie]

Put a jack under the rear of the transmission, remove the nuts that hold the cross member to the car, then lower the jack. Note that this will put a lot of strain on the lower radiator hose on an 88 or later 325i. Best to drain the radiator and disconnect that hose.

You can get even more room by lifting the front of the engine. I use an engine brace.

[cutsham]

Put a jack under the rear of the transmission, remove the nuts that hold the cross member to the car, then lower the jack. Note that this will put a lot of strain on the lower radiator hose on an 88 or later 325i. Best to drain the radiator and disconnect that hose.

You can get even more room by lifting the front of the engine. I use an engine brace.

I still need to remove the driveshaft right? And do I need to loosen the engine mounts?

[spdracrm3]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?p=1890245#post1890245

[cutsham]

My plan of action now is getting the car towed from my house, up to the autoshop at my high school tonight. That way I can get it up on the lift and have the all the right tools + a heated garage. (About 30 degrees out in CT)

I'll probably wind up pulling the whole transmission and after I fix the problem, I'll get all the bushings replaced, along with both seals.

[TheRealE30kidd]

Sounds like a detent issue, sir. I recommend replacing them.

[jlevie]

I still need to remove the driveshaft right? And do I need to loosen the engine mounts?

The shifter can be removed w/o removing the drive shaft. It is a bit of a pain to work over the drive shaft, but I would not drop the drive shaft just for the shifter.

[cutsham]

The shifter can be removed w/o removing the drive shaft. It is a bit of a pain to work over the drive shaft, but I would not drop the drive shaft just for the shifter.

From what I can see/feel the linkage is connected. Also the transmission is pretty wet, seams to be leaking from at least the rear seal if not the front, and the vent on top. While I have access to a lift and transmission jack I might as well pull the tranny, replace them all, and redo the bushings in the linkage after I fix the problem.

[jlevie]

If the shift linkage is intact, the problem will inside of the transmission.

[cutsham]

If the shift linkage is intact, the problem will inside of the transmission.

Considering the linkage is intact, and the problem is internal, what could it be? I read something about the selector forks? Are they worth fixing?

Basically if the problem is internal, is it worth it to fix it? (Tranny is also leaking) Or should I just find a (new) used one. The car only has 98,000 miles... assuming the tranny is original...

[Todd Black 88]

Just get a used working tranny if it is internal.