Clutch Pressure Problems. Need help ASAP (Its my daily)

[AsharC]

If the master cylinder and slave are good, there are no leaks, and the soft lines are good you can self-bleed the system. Grab the clutch pedal and pump it 75-100 times. If the clutch pedal is still soft the master cylinder could be bad or the clutch could be bad.

Well, the pedal gets stiff, so i am guessing the master is god. As for self-bleeding, after I pump do I have to crack open the bleeder, just like regular bleeding?

Thanks for the help guys!!!

[AsharC]

Well, I replaced the master and the slave (again) and this time I replaced the lines as well. I went through the whole bleeding process and still have the same issues. After holding the pedal down for a few seconds it loosing most of its pressure.

[JrCamacho]

when you bleed, the bleeder should be cracked open, yes. the idea is to eliminate air in the system.

I was going to suggest the hose from the master to the slave, but sounds like you already have that on order. also check to make sure that the bleeder is closed and tightened down, you could be leaking out of that? maybe.. just maybe.

my $.02

[AsharC]

Yes, I know the bleeder screw is supposed to be cracked open. I made sure everything was tightened.

[jlevie]

Well, I replaced the master and the slave (again) and this time I replaced the lines as well. I went through the whole bleeding process and still have the same issues. After holding the pedal down for a few seconds it loosing most of its pressure.

That says that fluid is leaking out of the pressure side. If you can't see a leak it is going into the bell housing or leaking back into the reservoir from the master cylinder. Are the replacements new (not used or rebuilt) parts?

[cwatt]

Any updates? I'm experiencing a similar problem. MY clutch goes to the floor but the clutch doesn't fully disengage. No leaks. I'm thinking it's a master or slave, but this is very interesting. Even more interesting, I also have an 86 325e.