Clutch Pressure Problems. Need help ASAP (Its my daily)

[cwatt]

Any updates? I'm experiencing a similar problem. MY clutch goes to the floor but the clutch doesn't fully disengage. No leaks. I'm thinking it's a master or slave, but this is very interesting. Even more interesting, I also have an 86 325e.

[jlevie]

Well, I replaced the master and the slave (again) and this time I replaced the lines as well. I went through the whole bleeding process and still have the same issues. After holding the pedal down for a few seconds it loosing most of its pressure.

That says that fluid is leaking out of the pressure side. If you can't see a leak it is going into the bell housing or leaking back into the reservoir from the master cylinder. Are the replacements new (not used or rebuilt) parts?

[AsharC]

Yes, I know the bleeder screw is supposed to be cracked open. I made sure everything was tightened.

[JrCamacho]

when you bleed, the bleeder should be cracked open, yes. the idea is to eliminate air in the system.

I was going to suggest the hose from the master to the slave, but sounds like you already have that on order. also check to make sure that the bleeder is closed and tightened down, you could be leaking out of that? maybe.. just maybe.

my $.02

[AsharC]

Well, I replaced the master and the slave (again) and this time I replaced the lines as well. I went through the whole bleeding process and still have the same issues. After holding the pedal down for a few seconds it loosing most of its pressure.

[AsharC]

If the master cylinder and slave are good, there are no leaks, and the soft lines are good you can self-bleed the system. Grab the clutch pedal and pump it 75-100 times. If the clutch pedal is still soft the master cylinder could be bad or the clutch could be bad.

Well, the pedal gets stiff, so i am guessing the master is god. As for self-bleeding, after I pump do I have to crack open the bleeder, just like regular bleeding?

Thanks for the help guys!!!

[jlevie]

If the master cylinder and slave are good, there are no leaks, and the soft lines are good you can self-bleed the system. Grab the clutch pedal and pump it 75-100 times. If the clutch pedal is still soft the master cylinder could be bad or the clutch could be bad.

[AsharC]

I am very limited to supplies and transportation. I am dorming at my college, and none of my roommates have cars and my car doesn't move. I also don't have any special tools other then a craftsmen tool set.

I'll see what I can find. In the mean time I ordered a new hard line from the master to the slave and a SS slave line, just in case any of them were leaking.

[AsharC]

I am very limited to supplies and transportation. I am dorming at my college, and none of my roommates have cars and my car doesn't move. I also don't have any special tools other then a craftsmen tool set.

I'll see what I can find. In the mean time I ordered a new hard line from the master to the slave and a SS slave line, just in case any of them were leaking.

[KMOSES]

I don't think a gravity bleed will not work for this. I had a hell of a time with me under the car and someone pumping the clutch pedal. What worked the best was a strap clamp I made that restricts the slave cylinder shaft movement so it can be bled while hanging under the car. This allows the bleeder port to be the highest point of the slave cylinder. Materials needed;
2) 5" long 5/16-18 bolts and 4 5/16-18 nuts
1) 5" x 1 x 3/8" piece of steel

Drill two 3/8" holes in the steel the same distance apart as the slave cylinder mounting holes. Insert the 5/16-18 bolts through the slave cylinder mounting holes and one nut on each bolt. Insert the bolts through the bolt holes you just drilled. Install the other nuts and tighten so the metal plate is even with the slave cylinder mounting surface. Now the clutch circut can be bled with the slave cylinder hanging down and the bleed port pointing up. The metal plate will retain the slave cylinder shaft.

[AsharC]

No luck, I replaced the master and still having these issues. The brake fluid is coming out clean so i don't think there is rust or anything.

I have replaced the slave about a month ago, along with the MC. Within that month, what I though was the MC was going bad. I replaced the MC, then I started to have these pressure issues. Then I went on to replacing the slave, and the problem still continues. After replacing the MC again, I still have the issues and thats where I am at.

I gravity bled the system.

[AsharC]

All the parts are coming in the AM so I'll see how it goes.

[KMOSES]

Removed the clutch master and slave cylinders, flushed line with brake cleaner, installed new clutch master and slave cylinders.

After everything was working I disassembled the first set of replacement master and slave, that is when I found the rust and crud and cut cup seal in the replacement master cylinder. It was a hard lesson to learn but one I will not soon forget. It sucks removing the clutch master and trying to get to that fitting that goes through the firewall!

[AsharC]

Including the lines? Or both at the same time?

[KMOSES]

Had this same thing happen. Replaced the slave cylinder and then the master cylinder. It turns out that during the bleeding process before replacing the master cylinder, it was pumping rust and other crap into my new slave cylinder. Then when I installed the new master cylinder some of the crap flowed back up the line into my new master cylinder during bleeding.
I ended up replacing everything at once and the problems went away.