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Driveshaft one spline off?

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    Driveshaft one spline off?

    I recently did a 5 speed swap and the paint marker that we marked the shaft with smeared, so we guessed... I think it may be one notch off because it has some vibration/shudder in the shifter. Its not real bad, most noticeable in 3rd and 4th gear when accelerating or decelerating. Bad enough to bother me though...

    Has anyone else done this on accident before? If so, how bad was it?

    Thanks!

    #2
    One spline off won't be enough to be noticeable, but binding u-joints will be quite noticeable which is quite likely with a used drive shaft.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      I had a drivetrain vibration that I thought was everything except the driveshaft. I had checked it for binding when I installed it with a rough articulation test--bad u-joints have a feel of a detent when you move it through its range of motion. This wasn't enough, as I felt there was slight play in the joint when I removed the driveshaft.

      I'd drop the heatshield and try holding one half stationary while wrenching at the other half with your hand. There should be no perceptible movement.

      Originally posted by whysimon
      WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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        #4
        The u-joints felt very good when we checked for play before we put the drive shaft in. Could it be anything else? One spline really wouldnt be noticeable at all?

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          #5
          bump, anymore insight people?

          THanks!

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            #6
            How's your tranny and motor mounts look? All ok?
            Originally posted by Matt-B
            hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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              #7
              People make such a big deal about "marking the driveshaft"

              I used the back half of my automatic driveshaft (1990 325i) and the front half of a manual driveshaft (1985 325e), didn't even test the vibration or splines, shoved it in, and it drove perfect with no vibrations.

              If your having issues, it's your u-joints more than likely

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                #8
                The alignment of the two shafts to each other are critical, make sure the joints are in the same plane.

                My M20 Frankenbuild(s)
                4 Sale - Fully Built TurnKey Megasquirt Plug and Play EMS

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by JinormusJ View Post
                  People make such a big deal about "marking the driveshaft"

                  I used the back half of my automatic driveshaft (1990 325i) and the front half of a manual driveshaft (1985 325e), didn't even test the vibration or splines, shoved it in, and it drove perfect with no vibrations.

                  If your having issues, it's your u-joints more than likely
                  you got lucky

                  I had my rear yoke off a few teeth and it was the most punishing vibration ever. It was like one of those ultrasonic cleaners, only it was knocking my fillings out.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

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                    #10
                    My drive-shaft that I got shortened, rebuilt, and rebalanced has 1"x2"x1/16" plates that are welded, and carefully ground down on the outside of the shaft to balance it out....

                    Not that it matters too much. An m30 is a buzzy motor anyways....that long crank has some harmonics to it.
                    Originally posted by Matt-B
                    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

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                      #11
                      Yeah motor mounts look pretty good and trans mounts are brand new. Might have to just bring it to a real mechanic..:-/

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by JinormusJ View Post
                        People make such a big deal about "marking the driveshaft"

                        I used the back half of my automatic driveshaft (1990 325i) and the front half of a manual driveshaft (1985 325e), didn't even test the vibration or splines, shoved it in, and it drove perfect with no vibrations.

                        If your having issues, it's your u-joints more than likely
                        Balance of driveshaft is done in every single manufactuer OEM production line.

                        Imbalance in driveshaft results in bearing wear in the attached items; Both transmission and Differential and driveshaft centre bearing will suffer.

                        One may get lucky yes and many who do like to tout this fact. But those who tear down driveline components often can see the stress from imbalance; Real racers know this also - racing stresses each item to the maximum - endurance racing is the most brutal.

                        Street people can get away with many hodge podge things for short periods of time as they are not able to even come close to the stress levels of wheel to wheel combat.

                        Pinion bearings in BMW diffs can survive ~200-250k in automatic e32/34's......untill the drive shaft becomes inbalanced.

                        when the driveline rotational stability the differential that somehow managed to grudge on 2 decades will expire very very quickly. Same effect with damaged CV's/bad wheel bearings; the vibrations show up and hurt other items!
                        OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

                        Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



                        Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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