CV Axle Help...

[DIIRTY-30]

Searched the forums; couldn't find the answer to my question and I want to be sure before installing, if I do or don't need to do the following...

Bought two new rear axles; SurTrack BM-8001's

Was told these need to be packed with grease prior to installation by someone, went to my mechanic friend he told me they should already be pre-packed judging by the clamps on the boots. He showed me the backs that bolt onto the diff and said there's already grease inside of them.

They came with two packets (one for each axle) of grease...


Question...

Do they need to be packed if they're brand new? Wouldn't the factory do that prior to shipping? Is the grease packets for future upkeep or is it for pre-installation?



If there's already a thread regarding this issue, please by all means link me and let this one die. If not I appreciate any and all advice anyone can give me regarding this matter. Rather do the job once and be done than two or three times.

Thanks...

[LJ851]

If you don't want to open them up and check for grease, i would contact the manufacturer and ask them what they did.

[DIIRTY-30]

If you don't want to open them up and check for grease, i would contact the manufacturer and ask them what they did.

Called both numbers provided, gotta wait till Monday to get a hold of them

[AndrewBird]

You can slide the diff side boot back and see if there is grease in it. I can't imagine them clamping the boots on if the end user is supposed to grease them. Wouldn't make any sense. They must already be greased.

[jalopi]

I've never heard of assembled axles that you had to grease yourself... that shit would be mind boggling. I guess it wouldn't hurt to wait until Monday to talk to the product support people.... you never know with bargain parts companies.

[jlevie]

It doesn't look like there are clamps on the differential boots and the end cap is zip tied on. Which makes me think that is where the grease is supposed to go. But it is odd that they'd give you the grease and not give you the clamps and glue/sealant for the end cap.

[DIIRTY-30]

These are exactly why I'm a little baffled by it. Originally I emailed the company almost a month ago to double check if the axles were the right part number. After figuring it out on my own with no response I bit the bullet and got them.

I couldn't imagine why they would seal something up either if the end user is supposed to pack it themselves and my mechanic said it would be stupid of them to sell something like that with one-time clamps.

Again, like stated above I really wouldn't put it past bargain companies so I'm gonna mess around with them. Worst case wait till tomorrow and give the company a call and hopefully talk to someone whose not based in India lol..

You can slide the diff side boot back and see if there is grease in it. I can't imagine them clamping the boots on if the end user is supposed to grease them. Wouldn't make any sense. They must already be greased.

I'm gonna pop off the zip tie'd end and see what the deal is with that. I figured maybe due to the small packet of grease perhaps that's what its for. Just hate companies who don't give quality instructions and leave you with your dick in your hand type shit. Kind of a catch 22 but at the same time $556 per OEM axle is way out of my league.


Thank you guys for the input, I'll mess around with it today and see if I can figure it out worst case I'll update it once I speak with a company/tech rep.

[jbgood]

Any update yet? I need to do the same and am very interested in your experience. If you're happy -- where did you order them from?
Thanks!



John

[e30orDie]

........... the cap just pops off.... the ziptie is just holding it there... its probably greased anyways... never seen one that wasn't.

Do you drift or drag?

IF yes or kinda..... please get rid of those now, you will shatter the CV bearing cages.



Only use oem ones or ones that are ACTUALLY REMANS They will be marked W Germany on the outer joint, and will have the bamboo type knot in the center of the shaft.

[DIIRTY-30]

........... the cap just pops off.... the ziptie is just holding it there... its probably greased anyways... never seen one that wasn't.

Do you drift or drag?

IF yes or kinda..... please get rid of those now, you will shatter the CV bearing cages.



Only use oem ones or ones that are ACTUALLY REMANS They will be marked W Germany on the outer joint, and will have the bamboo type knot in the center of the shaft.

I figure something would already be greased like I said; to me it wouldn't make a whole lot of sense not to. The instructions that came with it advise to grease them. I don't know shit about axles plain and simple hence the thread. I did my research and some say to grease, others don't so I figured id ask the world of r3v.

The car I'm building will be a street/track/auto-x car. I still have both my old ones set aside that I was planning to replace the boots themselves since they are OEM. At costs of upwards of $540/each or so I didn't find it in my best interest to drop $1200 on two OEM ones.

So in other words what your saying is just trash these over-all if I plan to abuse them more than just daily driving? Appreciate the heads up, if you could shoot me more info I'm all ears I enjoy learning this shit.

[ForcedFirebird]

I have seen a bone stock 318 cabbie break those CV's, one went less than a month, the other lasted a couple more weeks.

The grease may be for the splines, but as mentioned, pop the cap off the diff side and see.

[DIIRTY-30]

I have seen a bone stock 318 cabbie break those CV's, one went less than a month, the other lasted a couple more weeks.

No shit?!


May have to start re-evaluating things then.. Might just bite the bullet and rebuild my old ones if that's the case..


Anyone else got horror stories with this?

[ttrreevvoorr]

edit:

[e30orDie]

They are very simple to rebuild, pelican has all the parts (or at least used too)


As mentioned though.... HP really isn't the culprit, although it will increase the failure rate.

The problem is the metals and spec that they are built too...

I have plenty of cracked and shattered cages, along with chipped (big chunks) missing from the axle joint (where the balls glide)

Take your old ones apart, and check them out... Im willing to bet they are fine, and just repack them with new boots. Even if they are worn, I bet they will hold up better than those above ^

Just a fair warning ;)




I regret ever wasting my time with aftermarkets.... I learnt the hard way, doesn't mean you have too :)

[DIIRTY-30]

They are very simple to rebuild, pelican has all the parts (or at least used too)


As mentioned though.... HP really isn't the culprit, although it will increase the failure rate.

The problem is the metals and spec that they are built too...

I have plenty of cracked and shattered cages, along with chipped (big chunks) missing from the axle joint (where the balls glide)

Take your old ones apart, and check them out... Im willing to bet they are fine, and just repack them with new boots. Even if they are worn, I bet they will hold up better than those above ^

Just a fair warning ;)




I regret ever wasting my time with aftermarkets.... I learnt the hard way, doesn't mean you have too :)

Did a lot more research on the construction of CV axles after you brought up the cages being torn just so I knew what you were referencing. I appreciate the warning, I figure like with everything you get what you pay for and honestly $100 for 2 axles lol... Yeah. I figured worst case un-install and get another set but if they wont be able to take even a mild beating then its not worth the headache.

I appreciate the knowledge though it's something I would have ended up finding out the hard way as well. Guess I'll just sell these and rebuild the old ones. Rather have OEM stuff personally but I figured I was taking an easy way out since my boots were starting to crack but not too bad for being 24 yrs old.

Just at the time $50/an axle vs $550/OEM.... that's a good set of tires difference.