Clutch isn't fully disengaging?!

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  • ajiiE30
    Noobie
    • Mar 2014
    • 29

    #1

    Clutch isn't fully disengaging?!

    Hey guys, the car is a 1986 325e. The clutch wont fully disengage when I try pressing down on the peddle, giving me a hard to put the car into 1st and 2nd. I first thought it was a shot linkage / bushings so I took everything apart and put it back together and no luck. I did some research and people were directing towards the slave / master cylinder. So I replaced the slave and bled all 4 brakes at the same time. Still no luck.

    What would I be looking into replacing next? Would I be better off with the a used transmission with low KM's?
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    Unless it is leaking, the won't be the cause of this, but the master cylinder will. Replace the master cylinder and bleed the system.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

    • Exodus_2pt0
      R3V Elite
      • Dec 2011
      • 5943

      #3
      ^ What he said.

      You know if it's the slave cylinder because it will leak.

      A master cylinder can leak past the piston internally without losing any fluid, but give the same result. Try depressing the clutch all the way and hold it for a few moments. If you sit there for a while and the pedal doesn't return completely, you can bet your ass the master cylinder is shot.
      No E30 Club
      Originally posted by MrBurgundy
      Anyways, mustangs are gay and mini vans are faster than your car, you just have to deal with that.

      Comment

      • ajiiE30
        Noobie
        • Mar 2014
        • 29

        #4
        Originally posted by jlevie
        Unless it is leaking, the won't be the cause of this, but the master cylinder will. Replace the master cylinder and bleed the system.
        Originally posted by Exodus_2pt0
        ^ What he said.

        You know if it's the slave cylinder because it will leak.

        A master cylinder can leak past the piston internally without losing any fluid, but give the same result. Try depressing the clutch all the way and hold it for a few moments. If you sit there for a while and the pedal doesn't return completely, you can bet your ass the master cylinder is shot.
        Thanks for the replies! I'm going to try what you suggested by depressing and holding the clutch to see if it'll return completely.

        Comment

        • ajiiE30
          Noobie
          • Mar 2014
          • 29

          #5
          So I tried depressing and holding the clutch in without the car in gear and car in gear (engine off) but the clutch still comes back to normal position. Should I still go ahead and change the master cylinder?

          Took a little video for you guys.

          Comment

          • ajiiE30
            Noobie
            • Mar 2014
            • 29

            #6
            My clutch did feel very soft and spongy so I finally finished replacing the clutch master cylinder and the clutch pedal does feel a lot firmer but the car is still having a hard time going into gear. Could it be the bleeding that went wrong?

            Comment

            • jlevie
              R3V OG
              • Nov 2006
              • 13530

              #7
              If not fully bled, air in the system can cause this. But with a new master & slave in place and fully bled, this will be caused by a problem inside the bell housing.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment

              • ajiiE30
                Noobie
                • Mar 2014
                • 29

                #8
                Originally posted by jlevie
                If not fully bled, air in the system can cause this. But with a new master & slave in place and fully bled, this will be caused by a problem inside the bell housing.
                Have a pretty good feeling the system isn't fully bled, hopefully the bleeding solves the problem.

                Comment

                • ajiiE30
                  Noobie
                  • Mar 2014
                  • 29

                  #9
                  So I bled the system (water bottle method). Not sure if this method actually bleeds the whole system?

                  Comment

                  • e30rapidic
                    R3VLimited
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 2167

                    #10
                    If you do decide to put a new master in, do yourself a favor and bench bleed it before you install. Also consider upgrading to the 7 series master.
                    '87 325ic, powered by S50.

                    Comment

                    • ajiiE30
                      Noobie
                      • Mar 2014
                      • 29

                      #11
                      Originally posted by e30rapidic
                      If you do decide to put a new master in, do yourself a favor and bench bleed it before you install. Also consider upgrading to the 7 series master.
                      I already replaced the clutch master cylinder on the car. I'm just not sure whether I bled it properly. Car still wont disengage causing the car to have a hard time to go into gear :(

                      Comment

                      • e30rapidic
                        R3VLimited
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 2167

                        #12
                        Pull the slave cylinder and compress it against the bell housing by hand a few times. Also check to make sure the fork doesn't move around a lot. The pivot pin can wear out.

                        Also how is the trans fluid? Is it low or old?
                        '87 325ic, powered by S50.

                        Comment

                        • ajiiE30
                          Noobie
                          • Mar 2014
                          • 29

                          #13
                          Originally posted by e30rapidic
                          Pull the slave cylinder and compress it against the bell housing by hand a few times. Also check to make sure the fork doesn't move around a lot. The pivot pin can wear out.

                          Also how is the trans fluid? Is it low or old?
                          I got a pressure pump that you connect to the top of the reservoir. I pumped it to about 15 psi and loosened the nipple on the slave but I barely got any fluid and there was still about 13-14 psi of pressure left when tighten the nipple. I'll try what you suggested by compressing the slave.

                          The transmission fluid is fresh, just filled it up with Redline MTL. But I had this problem before I changed the fluid as well.

                          Comment

                          • thenewguy
                            Advanced Member
                            • Sep 2008
                            • 182

                            #14
                            Pressure plate could be stuck?

                            Comment

                            • ajiiE30
                              Noobie
                              • Mar 2014
                              • 29

                              #15
                              Originally posted by thenewguy
                              Pressure plate could be stuck?
                              Not really sure. I just thought it was my hydraulic system that failed.

                              So I removed the slave cylinder from the transmission and compressed it about 9-10 times, I did get air out so I thought this might have solved my problem. I put everything back together but the car is still having a hard time going into gear when the car is started.

                              I'm guessing something in the bell housing went bad?

                              Comment

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