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New CSB and Guibo or new driveshaft?

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    New CSB and Guibo or new driveshaft?

    So my car started making significant thudding sounds coming from the rear when I accelerate from a dead stop. After I'm past 10-15mph it goes away. I also notice some vibrations at times too. I'm sure my CSB has given up the ghost. I know if the U-joints go bad the shaft bearing wears out quickly. In order to avoid destroying the new bearing and needing to do the repair twice, I wanted to make sure the u-joints aren't worn out.

    How do you guys tell if the drive shaft needs to be replaced? Can I diagnose it prior to pulling it from the car?

    It is my DD, so I can't have it down for too long.
    1987 325 w/ M52b28 - Bronzit
    2007 X3 - Platinum Bronze

    #2
    you should probably take a look at the center support bearing first. in some extreme cases i have seen the rubber completely ditiriuorate and the drive shaft just resting on the bearing housing. that would cause clunking at very low speeds for sure

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      #3
      Yep, center support first. But yes, the u-joints do wear enough to warrant double checking. I'd also be looking at your guibo as well.

      Here's a vid I took showing a bad u-joint on a 2002 driveshaft, given the e30 uses the same joint it should be pretty easy to cross-reference. To check the u-joint just grab either side and try and twist to check for play.
      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLlFkmKtxPQ
      ADAMS Autosport

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        #4
        Thanks.

        I already planned on replacing the guibo and shaft bearing. Then reading about it further, I started to worry about the u-joints. Sort of the equivalent of looking on webmd and realizing you have the symptoms to a dozen serious diseases.

        That video was helpful, as were a string of others I checked out. I think my plan is to swap out the old CSB and guibo, and inspect the joint while in there. If it's bad, I guess I'll just have to do the repair twice. Most new drive shafts come with a new bearing anyway so if the new one gets eaten up it won't be the end of the world.
        1987 325 w/ M52b28 - Bronzit
        2007 X3 - Platinum Bronze

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          #5
          I'm in the same situation and I made the same decision. Replace flex disc and csb and see where it gets me.

          Originally posted by SpasticDwarf
          Honestly I built it just to have a place to sit and listen to Hotline Bling on repeat.

          Comment


            #6
            In almost all cases, a failure of the CSB will be caused by bad/binding drive shaft u-joints. Replacing the drive shaft with a reman (which usually comes with a new CSB) is the only long term fix.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment


              #7
              I'll second that. If you have the means, it's worth it to just get a reman'd driveshaft with everything already installed and balanced. You certainly don't want to change the CSB/guibo on a shaft with bad joints. Then you've just wasted a lot of time and money when the CSB's go bad and/or your U joint fails and you have to do the job over again.
              "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

              85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
              88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
              89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
              91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

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                #8
                Alright. So I'm convinced that I should go ahead a swap the entire driveshaft. I found someone selling one from a 325is with only 10000 miles on it for pretty cheap.

                Will this drive shaft from a 1987 325is coupe work for my 1987 325 sedan?
                Both are manual transmissions.
                1987 325 w/ M52b28 - Bronzit
                2007 X3 - Platinum Bronze

                Comment


                  #9
                  I went the cheap route (csb,guibo) and wish I would have just replaced the whole driveshaft vibrations started showing he selves about 2k miles after first repair. Car is down atm while saving my nickels for a new/reman ds. I got lucky and found a guy local to me on CL parting a 325i picked up the ds for 80 along with other parts I needed

                  You may want to consider changing your transmission mounts while you're at it. One was completely ripped from the trans.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I went the cheap route (csb,guibo) and wish I would have just replaced the whole driveshaft. Vibrations started showing themselves about 2k miles after first repair. Car is down atm while saving my nickels for a new/reman ds. I got lucky and found a guy local to me on CL parting a 325i, picked up the ds for 80 along with other parts I needed

                    You may want to consider changing your transmission mounts while you're at it. One was completely ripped from the trans.

                    I think the eta uses the bigger guibo than the i and is, keep that in mind
                    Cheapest I found remaned ds online was around $340+ 80 core but free shipping and return shipping of core
                    Last edited by hammrdwn510; 09-09-2014, 03:38 PM. Reason: Grammarz iz ma fruend

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                      #11
                      So to post an update.

                      I replaced the drive shaft with a re-manufactured one from Mesa Performance. The install went pretty smooth, without any major hang ups. Then I took it for a drive, and I thought I was feeling vibrations when I shouldn't. At first I thought it was "phantom vibrations" I was feeling simply because I was so focused on feeling for them. Then the next morning driving to work I was convinced something was amiss.

                      Since I was going out of town and didn't have time to crawl under it again I brought it to the shop to fix whatever I had done wrong. After leaving my car with him all day, he tells me everything was installed correctly and it is engine vibrations translating into the DS.

                      I think its strange it would develop this vibration right after replacing the DS, so I'm a little stumped. I changed the trans mounts with oem replacements, but I wouldn't think that would be the cause. The vibration is RPM related and not speed so I know its not the DS. I can rev it in neutral and feel the engine shake.

                      I'm going to test the compression and see if one is way off of the others. Anyone have any thoughts?
                      1987 325 w/ M52b28 - Bronzit
                      2007 X3 - Platinum Bronze

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Did you replace the flex disc? If so, was it installed in the correct direction? I bought my from Driveshaft Specialist of Texas. They use the stock style non-servicable staked u-joints. While that doesn't sound like something you would want, I went with them because the stock one's last a long time and I've heard issues with serviceable joints. Does this unit have serviceable joints? - AB

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