Ok so I have took everything I needed off the old tranny and put it on the new tranny (shifter mounting bracket, big 3 driveshaft output shaft) and I was like "ok let's throw this in there." Then I thought to my self "I will regret it if I don't give this thing a decent cleaning" because it has a new slave and new sensors, and I also replaced the clutch fork bearing. So I thought what a shame to put new parts on a dirty tranny. I thought I would just rinse it off, but NO my butt had to get the tuff stuff and scrub it lol. I have found in the past though that a clean part will tell you where the break is or leak if it's clean, so all in all this should be done anyways. The pics are of the new tranny cleaned up (it was dirtier than the one I took out) and shows that the output shaft splines are the same. I put in new seals too :) just had to do it, they're just 4 bucks. And I put a pic in of what cleaner I use, you can get it from wally world ( I am in no way endorsing or getting paid for using it) I have oven cleaner and all that jazz but it can sometimes die aluminum white so I like this one, it foams great when you start scrubbing.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
In With The New, Tranny That IS:)
Collapse
X
-
Kickass!Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
Comment
-
Well got everything in and it all hooked back up. Set the car down jumped in, and now it won't start. The starter doesn't click or show any signs of getting a signal. Both large wires are secure and the small wire with the spade is also secure. The O2 sensor and both sensor's on the tranny are also hooked up. I did take the main relay out to look at it because of my "ghost motor" post in electrical. All my inside acc. were on all the time, I heard something rattling in the relay so I popped it open and stuff fell out. It looked like it was still ok but I think this was the problem because all of my acc. are now working normally lol. Also both fuel pumps are coming on with the key switch. I will troubleshoot tomorrow I am spent.sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger
Comment
-
Can anyone show me the correct starter studs to bolt the wires too? I am certain I bolted both the large wires to the only nut I took off so they went back in the same spot, and unless there are 2 spade hookups I have it right as well. Can the main relay cause this problem of not starting?sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger
Comment
-
I got it, there was another spade terminal hiding under the starter for the small wire. I couldn't stand it so I went out and trouble shot it tonight lol. I went simple to start and put a test light on the small solenoid wire and had the wife try to start it, it had power so I new I had something off. Everything is A OK will try her out tomorrow :)sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger
Comment
-
Huzzah! Started right up, and the new tranny shifts great. I did notice a spirited downshift into 3rd has a slight grind, but it got less and less obvious the more I drove it. If you downshift normally it doesn't grind. My local parts store (I kinda live in the boonies) was out of Royal Purple and Redline 90 wt so I went with Lucas 90wt with the Lucas additive. I have some syncromesh in the shed from my Dodge Cummins getrag but I didn't know if I could use it. The sticker on my new tranny was green and everything I found said to use 90wt.sigpic87 325E The Honey Badger
Comment
-
Hell yes! Nice man. See you at the Brodeo?;DOriginally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
Comment
-
Originally posted by Ether-D View PostHell yes! Nice man. See you at the Brodeo?;Dsigpic87 325E The Honey Badger
Comment
Comment