Clutch Won't Disengage

[Untouched]

Hi Everyone! First time poster, long time reader...

Backstory: So about a month ago I purchased my e30 (1986 325e). The initial issue with the car is that the clutch wouldn't engage. You could start the car and put it through the gears without pressing the pedal. So, I went ahead and overhauled the clutch. Found a broken release bearing inside, but went ahead and changed out everything. New pressure plate, clutch, fork, bearings, gaskets, etc. Pretty much everything in the area of the clutch. Bolted everything back up.

I then proceeded to replace the slave cylinder, as the old one looked well worn and old. Bled it (NOT pressure bled. Did it the regular way: Pump,open bleeder, close bleeder, un-pump, repeat until firm). Got a firm clutch pedal. Went to test everything, and now the clutch won't disengage... When the engine is off, I can put the shifter through all gears easy. When the engine is on, I push the clutch pedal and am unable to put the shifter into gear.

I then thought maybe it was the master cylinder. Changed that. Re-bled. Firm pedal. Same problem. I am totally stumped.

If I put the car into gear and then turn it on, the car will go and I am able to change gears (very rough though, have to really rev-match and force it in gears).

Anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? Any help is appreciated.

[jlevie]

I suspect that you still have air in the clutch hydraulics. Surprisingly, the clutch will self-bleed if you pump the clutch pedal about 100 times. Try that first since you don't have a pressure bleeder.

[Untouched]

I suspect that you still have air in the clutch hydraulics. Surprisingly, the clutch will self-bleed if you pump the clutch pedal about 100 times. Try that first since you don't have a pressure bleeder.

Thank you for the response! Should I pump the clutch this way with the reservoir cap off or on? Or does it not matter?

If all else fails, I might try and limp it to a close shop and have them pressure bleed it.

[TSI]

Curious about this, I have a similar situation.

[jlevie]

It makes no difference as to the cap being on or off.

[Untouched]

It makes no difference as to the cap being on or off.

Okay, sounds good. Will try this later tonight. If this doesn't work, I may try reverse bleeding method seen here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0 . Thanks for the advice, will let you know.

[Untouched]

It makes no difference as to the cap being on or off.

Hi J.

Finally had time to complete this "100 pump" process; it made no difference for me.

I ended up reverse bleeding the system and removing the clutch stop; the clutch is finally able to disengage, but it is pretty much all the way down to the floor. But, that didn't stop me from driving around the neighborhood a bit.

While driving around, I noticed my brakes slowly lose pressure. If i pump them a few times they regain pressure, then lose it, etc.

I know that the clutch and brakes share the same fluid; could this brake pressure loss be affecting my clutch aswell? Unfortunately, I have no noticable leaks anywhere. Reservoir does not seem to lose fluid. Leads me to think its the brake master cylinder internal rod seals.

Could this attribute to the clutch aswell since fluid is shared between systems?

[TobyB]

Nope, they just share fluids, not diseases.

And if you're not losing fluid at all, yes, replace the master for the brakes.

You may find, as you drive, that your clutch completes the bleeding process for you-
if it's working, drive it and see. Mine does that- it's a bugger to get working at all,
but once you can get it to 'sorta' work, it'll finish bleeding over the next few days.

t

[jlevie]

If you have no leaks at the lines or calipers the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced. Once the master cylinder is off use a rag on the end of a wire to check the bottom of the booster for fluid. If there is fluid in the booster it will have to be replaced as brake fluid will destroy the booster pretty quickly.

Note that the make of the booster and master cylinder must match. Either the ATE parts or the Girling parts can be used, but I'd stick with what is on the car now.

[e30 gangsta]

If the clutch does not disengage even with everything new and bleed you installed the clutch disk backwards. Ask me how I know lol

[Untouched]

If the clutch does not disengage even with everything new and bleed you installed the clutch disk backwards. Ask me how I know lol

I don't really see how that's possible. The clutch disc is marked "gearbox" side ;p I tripled checked that before even thinking of putting it all together haha.

If you have no leaks at the lines or calipers the brake master cylinder needs to be replaced. Once the master cylinder is off use a rag on the end of a wire to check the bottom of the booster for fluid. If there is fluid in the booster it will have to be replaced as brake fluid will destroy the booster pretty quickly.

Note that the make of the booster and master cylinder must match. Either the ATE parts or the Girling parts can be used, but I'd stick with what is on the car now.

Thanks J. Will check into the brands and replace with what I have.

Nope, they just share fluids, not diseases.

And if you're not losing fluid at all, yes, replace the master for the brakes.

You may find, as you drive, that your clutch completes the bleeding process for you-
if it's working, drive it and see. Mine does that- it's a bugger to get working at all,
but once you can get it to 'sorta' work, it'll finish bleeding over the next few days.

t

That's good news. Guess ill keep hammering it around the block until the clutch feels good and I replace the brake master.



Thanks everyone :)

[Old city bimmer]

few questions- not saying you dont know what your are doing but it happens to all of us.
1. are you sure you put the fork the right way.
2. are you sure the release bearing contact surface -that will be the two tabs that are suppose to make contact with the fork are correct.
3. did you double check the fork spring if it came loose when you put the fork in?


if you can get someone to help you. jack up the car and have someone pump the clutch and from under the car watch the line to see if it flexes. if it does take out the slave cylinder and have some one gently press the clutch pedal and see it it moves. gently or it will come out. if this all works then your master has not been bled right. it doesn't matter if you got a hard pedal. clutch bleeding is a pita but if you bench bleed its a breeze.

and the comment about the clutch installed the wrong way, that's not possible since the clutch hub will push the pressure plate away from the flywheel to far out that the pressure plate bolts wont even grab for you to tighten it.