High clutch engagement

[Varinn]

Just finished putting my s52 back in the car after a full rebuild and I've got an annoying issue. I replaced my 12lb m20 flywheel, sachs clutch, TOB, etc with a spec stage 1 and stock 17lb single mass flywheel (plus pivot pin, clip, and fork).

Dimensionally nothing appears to have changed except the new tob looked to be ~1mm longer from the ears to the bearing surface than the original. My stock clutch worked and felt wonderful with the engagement point about mid travel, perfectly linear, and ~1 inch above the clutch stop.

New setup I have a very spongy but stiff feel at the bottom, and the clutch engages about 1" from the top of pedal travel. The clutch hydraulics were never touched when the motor and trans were out, the slave was tied to a fuel line under the car and pedal was not pressed. I will try and bleed it tomorrow, but does anyone have any other ideas? I'm worried the bleed will do nothing as I think an air pocket makes it tough to disengage and not the other way around.

My big fear is the SPEC tob is too long, or I didnt fully seat the pivot pin and the setup is always touching the pressure plate... Removing a G260 on a 24v swap car is not very easy.

[TobyB]

I've never done an S52 swap, but the M52/42/20 clutch system self- bleeds over time.
So if it's working, just try to forget about it for a while and see if it settles down.
The M54 was a royal pain to bleed, and I was really frustrated when it never
felt right. Jenn drove it for a week, I got back in to move it and it was perfect.

I asked her what she did.

"Drove it. It got better every day"

I learned something.

That's proven to be true of the M20 E30, too.

hth,

t