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Q's about my CSB

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    Q's about my CSB

    So a few days ago i started getting clunking under my seat at low rpms in 1st and 2nd gear. i pulled the drive shaft and i see that csb is failing. the outer circular "skin" of the csb is torn off and clearly has failed. my questions are...

    Does this mean that my drive shaft will soon fail? even tho both joints are not seized and have 0 play and moved freely and smooth.

    also, i have noticed that there is marker marking of some numbers on the drive shaft and yellow markings where the front and the rear drive shaft connect.. Could this possibly indicate that the previous owner had installed a rebuilt drive shaft(got the car about 4 months ago)?

    Lastly! prior to my noticeable CSB clunking, when i would put her under load in low gears i feel like my rear passenger side wheel would stutter in a way( can not confirm that it was from that location but it felt like it). could this have been a symptom from my failing csb?

    Thanks fellas, any past experiences or advice would be greatly appreciated.
    Last edited by Dofo; 05-20-2016, 03:21 PM.

    #2
    Could be just a worn out csb, recently replaced one a friends manual e30(took care of the clunking and was going to replace the one on my auto e30 but the driveline u joints are shot etc so I'm in the middle of a manual swap right now.(I figured why spend any money on a auto driveline I'd be hustling backwards. if there's binding in between the two drivelines I could see that creating an issue with binding/studdering while you take off etc, my gas mileage and my friends e30 got horrible fast.
    If you don't have notchiness with both of your u Joints(double check your quibo/flex plate real well under stress they will show their true colors(cracks etc). Might be a good time to replace that too. I got mine for like 23 bucks shipped so I figured what the hell.

    I've already rebuilt my rear axles, and serviced my rear diff so you could have other issues, just keeping working down the line.

    Just trying to help, seems like the experts on here don't have time for us noobs anymore.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jonnywadster View Post
      Could be just a worn out csb, recently replaced one a friends manual e30(took care of the clunking and was going to replace the one on my auto e30 but the driveline u joints are shot etc so I'm in the middle of a manual swap right now.(I figured why spend any money on a auto driveline I'd be hustling backwards. if there's binding in between the two drivelines I could see that creating an issue with binding/studdering while you take off etc, my gas mileage and my friends e30 got horrible fast.
      If you don't have notchiness with both of your u Joints(double check your quibo/flex plate real well under stress they will show their true colors(cracks etc). Might be a good time to replace that too. I got mine for like 23 bucks shipped so I figured what the hell.

      I've already rebuilt my rear axles, and serviced my rear diff so you could have other issues, just keeping working down the line.

      Just trying to help, seems like the experts on here don't have time for us noobs anymore.
      thanks i really appreciate the response. i actually replaced my flex disk and has a few hundred miles on them. i also read some where that if your car is in gear and you turn the drive shaft by hand it indicates a failed drive shaft. because i have done this test and my drive shaft rotated several degrees in gear. maybe a symptom from my failed csb? dont see how that would cause it tho.

      and yes very true, but oh well haha

      Comment


        #4
        Alright bitches, here's your time despite the whining.
        Typically, csb's and giubos don't usually just go out. They die as a result of something else like driveline misalignment. So if your driveshaft feels smooth and there's no play in the u-joints, order a giubo, csb, motor mounts, and trans mounts. If there was an alignment issue, it will (largely) be fixed. Don't order the cheapest ones unless you're only keeping the car for a couple months.

        P.S. R3v has never had time for noobs. But I'm not like other guys, I just wanna love you with all my heart.
        Originally posted by Andy.B
        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
        ~~~~~~~~~~
        I was born on 3/25…
        ~~~~~~~~~~

        Comment


          #5
          hey die as a result of something else
          Old age and corrosion (for the csb) are also common causes of death.

          +1 for buying name- brand parts, here.
          And also +1 for replacing motor and trans mounts, brake fluid, antifreeze and gearbox fluids
          on a preventative schedule....

          t
          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
            Alright bitches, here's your time despite the whining.
            Typically, csb's and giubos don't usually just go out. They die as a result of something else like driveline misalignment. So if your driveshaft feels smooth and there's no play in the u-joints, order a giubo, csb, motor mounts, and trans mounts. If there was an alignment issue, it will (largely) be fixed. Don't order the cheapest ones unless you're only keeping the car for a couple months.

            P.S. R3v has never had time for noobs. But I'm not like other guys, I just wanna love you with all my heart.
            thank you kind sir, i have replaced my guibo and i ordered my csb on pelican for around 50 bucks, i believe its not the "cheap kind". my motor mounts seem good, no cracks. my trans mounts on the other hand are incredibly squishy and soaked, i suppose its time to replace those as well ehh?

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Dofo View Post
              thank you kind sir, i have replaced my guibo and i ordered my csb on pelican for around 50 bucks, i believe its not the "cheap kind". my motor mounts seem good, no cracks. my trans mounts on the other hand are incredibly squishy and soaked, i suppose its time to replace those as well ehh?
              I'd say replace trans and motor mounts if you can afford it. But get those squishy trans mounts done pronto. Then your driveline will be much closer to where it should be. A lot of people think that the giubo is meant to flex laterally, but it's really only supposed to flex torsionally. The engine/trans and the first section of your driveshaft need to be laser-straight in order for other parts to not be eaten. I believe I've beaten this dead horse sufficiently now. Enjoy.
              Originally posted by Andy.B
              Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
              1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
              ~~~~~~~~~~
              I was born on 3/25…
              ~~~~~~~~~~

              Comment


                #8
                pre-load your center support bearing. Also, there is a school of thought that a perfectly straight drive shaft with u-joints causes more damage then one with a slight bend. I could explain it better but I'd need a few graphs and an easel.
                Originally posted by Matt-B
                hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
                  I'd say replace trans and motor mounts if you can afford it. But get those squishy trans mounts done pronto. Then your driveline will be much closer to where it should be. A lot of people think that the giubo is meant to flex laterally, but it's really only supposed to flex torsionally. The engine/trans and the first section of your driveshaft need to be laser-straight in order for other parts to not be eaten. I believe I've beaten this dead horse sufficiently now. Enjoy.


                  Yeah i see that now. I ordered some condor mounts. Sadly they arent shipping till the first of next month! Sucks but thanks for the advice and time.


                  Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by george graves View Post
                    pre-load your center support bearing. Also, there is a school of thought that a perfectly straight drive shaft with u-joints causes more damage then one with a slight bend. I could explain it better but I'd need a few graphs and an easel.


                    I actually just found out about preloading a csb from stumbling on a post. Good thing im a curious fella. No worries im learning as i go ty


                    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      How do you laser align the engine trans? The PO did an manual swap and had the engine out and put in a new driveshaft. How do I check for straightness?


                      Sent from the woods of Maine.
                      sigpic
                      1987 325e Lachssilber w/ MarkD chip and late bumpers, Zender EVO spoiler, s3.25 LSD

                      Originally posted by nando
                      I don't think there's really strong evidence that ZDDP harms cats.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I cant un-see Cool Story Bro
                        Boris - 89 E30 325i
                        84- E30 323i

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Sorry if I'm thread jacking, I'm trying to order a CSB from carquest, and the guy said they have multiple sizes. Does anyone know what size I should order? (in mm for a late model manual 325i)
                          Last edited by mexocutioner; 07-03-2016, 03:40 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Sure he's not trying to sell you a guibo? The difference in the CSB's
                            just side- to- side: I'm pretty sure they're the same diameter.
                            The bearings certainly are... RealOEM says 55x13x30 for both.
                            All I got,

                            t
                            now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by mexocutioner View Post
                              Sorry if I'm thread jacking, I'm trying to order a CSB from carquest, and the guy said they have multiple sizes. Does anyone know what size I should order? (in mm for a late model manual 325i)


                              Im not sure if cab have different sizes. I ordered mine off pelican, made sure that i was searching parts under my specific car. You ahould try it. Btw i purchased febi's csb. Hope this helps.


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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