Clutch engagement/disengagement question

[ELVA164]

Hi all,

I just had a bit of a gearbox/clutch refresh done, replacing the clutch, TOB, pilot bearing, fork spring, pivot pin, master cylinder, slave cylinder, hose between the two, etc. Before the work, my clutch pedal had to be completely depressed to disengage and almost completely released to engage.

My question is this: With the new parts, the pedal feels better (like it has fresh parts), and it disengages farther from the floor, but I still have to release the pedal almost completely for the clutch to engage. Is this just how E30 clutches are? Is there any ability to adjust this?

Thanks,

Mike

P.S. All the parts are good stuff, no aftermarket aside from a rolled steel pivot pin.

[Chrisbike]

That's how my clutch is. I think it's stock 120k on my iX. Also I believe that there is a way to adjust it but am not sure.

[ELVA164]

I heard on the bf.c version of my thread that the slave cylinder may need more bleeding. It sounds unpleasant, but I'm open to any tips. Too bad it isn't self-bleeding like the master is.

[jeffnhiscars]

We bled my slave for close to an hour and the pedal catches and releases where you'd think it should. Standard brake bleeding procedure only after you start getting pedal feel (which you have)

I don't think the pedal is adjustable so air seems to be thi most likely cause

[ELVA164]

So just so I know what I'd be aiming for, how far from "all the way up" does the clutch fully engage? For me it's only a couple inches, maybe 3.