Won't go into gear while car is running

[Chris Spiegl]

Yesterday, I bought a 1987 325is manual with a 2.8L stroker. The slave and master have been replaced, but the clutch hasn't been (235k miles). 4.10 Open Diff. There is a short shifter in it as well.

Tonight, I was driving the car and tried to put it in third but it refused and made a grinding noise and I couldn't shift into any gear. I turned the car off and shifted into 2nd and drove 500yards to get home. It stayed in gear and drove, but I could not take it out of gear. The car shifts fine when it is off. When it is on it will not go into gear, when trying it will make a whining noise. I have tried pumping the clutch with the car on then trying but still nothing. When riding with the PO, he ground the gears a few times.

So my questions is what is broke? lol

Did the clutch blow up on me?

Thanks,
I will be taking it into a shop asap assuming that the fix is clutch/flywheel related

[ParksMyCar]

The clutch just plain and simply is GONE. Time to replace no biggie.


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[Seawolf]

The whining noise is your synchro hub asking you to stop doing that, it could well be the clutch is toast but...

"The slave and master have been replaced" - okay but bled and adjusted correctly ?

The slave has a downward pointing bleed nipple and air pockets can get trapped in the upper part of the cylinder, I remove the slave and bleed it with the bleed nipple upwards and the rod compressed to solve this problem.

The master cylinder has an eccentric bolt adjustment and adjustable rod that must be setup to the correct distance from the firewall, also (and I could be wrong here) I believe the single & dual mass flywheel masters are different and not interchangeable though they will physically fit.

and...

"but the clutch hasn't been (235k miles)"

Doesn't sound right unless that is a factory 2.8 stroker ;D

Someone putting that engine work in and not replacing the clutch pack sounds weird.

But yes, the clutch itself or the pivot pin could well be buggered though I'd check the cheaper options first.

[Chris Spiegl]

The whining noise is your synchro hub asking you to stop doing that, it could well be the clutch is toast but...

"The slave and master have been replaced" - okay but bled and adjusted correctly ?

The slave has a downward pointing bleed nipple and air pockets can get trapped in the upper part of the cylinder, I remove the slave and bleed it with the bleed nipple upwards and the rod compressed to solve this problem.

The master cylinder has an eccentric bolt adjustment and adjustable rod that must be setup to the correct distance from the firewall, also (and I could be wrong here) I believe the single & dual mass flywheel masters are different and not interchangeable though they will physically fit.

and...

"but the clutch hasn't been (235k miles)"

Doesn't sound right unless that is a factory 2.8 stroker ;D

Someone putting that engine work in and not replacing the clutch pack sounds weird.

But yes, the clutch itself or the pivot pin could well be buggered though I'd check the cheaper options first.

Just talked to PO and the clutch was replaced when the stroker was done (he didn't mention this on the huge list of work done to car)

I'm thinking its the clutch and not the slave/master because I am able to change the gears while the car is off and then start the car and drive it in that gear. (Had to do that to limp it home, and will have to do that again on Wednesday when I take it to the shop 0.9 miles away) Also, the clutch pedal still feels normal in comparison to before this happened and after this happened and comparison to other e30's

And I believe they were bled/adjusted correctly because the car has driven fine for ~60,000 miles since the clutch, slave/master, stroker was put in.

[Seawolf]

Okay, that makes more sense.

Then it sounds like tranny out time, it may be just the pivot pin (original is plastic) may have worn down or just plain failed. Replace it with a brass version when you have the box out.

I'd opt for replacing the clutch anyway while the tranny is out even if it is that pivot pin, along with the engine rear main seal, tranny front seal and any shifter linkages if they are at all suspect.

Edit: Just one final thing - check that your master -> slave hydraulic hose hasn't failed, it may be ballooning under load instead of delivery pressure to the slave.

[Chris Spiegl]

Okay, that makes more sense.

Then it sounds like tranny out time, it may be just the pivot pin (original is plastic) may have worn down or just plain failed. Replace it with a brass version when you have the box out.

I'd opt for replacing the clutch anyway while the tranny is out even if it is that pivot pin, along with the engine rear main seal, tranny front seal and any shifter linkages if they are at all suspect.

Edit: Just one final thing - check that your master -> slave hydraulic hose hasn't failed, it may be ballooning under load instead of delivery pressure to the slave.

Would the hose be leaking? Theres no leaking anywhere and ill check that soon. Any diagrams?

Thanks.

Also i'll relay that info to my mechanic (Dont have the time nor place to remove a tranny right now)

Also when i start the car in gear, when i press the clutch it will disengage a bit but it wont stall

[TobyB]

Not shifting while running is a classic sign of leaky/nonfunctional clutch hydraulics.

But it could be the clutch itself, the t/o pivot, the t/o arm, the pilot, or tip of the slave.

Personally, I'd make damned sure the hydraulics worked right before dropping trans...

t

[Chris Spiegl]

Not shifting while running is a classic sign of leaky/nonfunctional clutch hydraulics.

But it could be the clutch itself, the t/o pivot, the t/o arm, the pilot, or tip of the slave.

Personally, I'd make damned sure the hydraulics worked right before dropping trans...

t

Well tried to bleed the clutch slave just like how brakes would be bled and now there is no pressure at all... help..

Edit: regained pressure by putting the car in first and starting it, this caused the car to jult forward and then drive into place

[Seawolf]

"Would the hose be leaking? Theres no leaking anywhere and ill check that soon. Any diagrams?"

Diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1113-USA-06-1989-E30-BMW-325i&diagId=21_0004

Part 19 is the flexible hose, if the hose reinforcement has failed then the hose will swell under pressure instead of disengaging the clutch, a rare problem but it does happen and the hose won't leak. The only way to check is to inspect the hose while the clutch pedal is held fully down.

[Chris Spiegl]

"Would the hose be leaking? Theres no leaking anywhere and ill check that soon. Any diagrams?"

Diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1113-USA-06-1989-E30-BMW-325i&diagId=21_0004

Part 19 is the flexible hose, if the hose reinforcement has failed then the hose will swell under pressure instead of disengaging the clutch, a rare problem but it does happen and the hose won't leak. The only way to check is to inspect the hose while the clutch pedal is held fully down.

Hose isnt swelling, but while i was checking it, there was a gargling sound. Tried to bleed, but eventually lost all pressure. Thinking i have a bad master or slave.

[TobyB]

Gargling? Is your brake fluid blue and smell minty- fresh?

Yeah, I agree, sounds like this usually mean air inside, and if you can't get
it to bleed, that goes along with that.

One thing- try the 2- person bleed, where your assistant applies the pedal,
you open, then close, the bleeder, then your assistant lifts the pedal.

Then, if you get any pedal at all, go at it like a madman. Pump it like it's an inflatable doll. The clutch can self- bleed to an extent, and often, if you get some fluid
movement, will take care of itself. I had a slave go, and the replacement was a BUGGER
to get the air out of.

t

[Chris Spiegl]

Gargling? Is your brake fluid blue and smell minty- fresh?

Yeah, I agree, sounds like this usually mean air inside, and if you can't get
it to bleed, that goes along with that.

One thing- try the 2- person bleed, where your assistant applies the pedal,
you open, then close, the bleeder, then your assistant lifts the pedal.

Then, if you get any pedal at all, go at it like a madman. Pump it like it's an inflatable doll. The clutch can self- bleed to an extent, and often, if you get some fluid
movement, will take care of itself. I had a slave go, and the replacement was a BUGGER
to get the air out of.

t

We were doing the 2person bleeding when all pressure got lost. Only thing that got pressure back was driving it. The clutch doesnt fully disengage (won't fully go into idle or enough to make stall if take off) Dropped it at at a shop this morning. hoping its not the clutch. If it is clutch, anyone know how much the repair costs?