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Clutch Master Cylinder Pushrod: reasons for snapping in half

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    #16
    Originally posted by usualdeviant View Post
    Yeah I'd say that's why it broke I didn't even realize it was supposed to be 15 ft. lbs. instead of 45 or whatever I had it at.
    Even 15lbs is likely too much. The bolt needs to be able to spin so that things can pivot. You want ti tight enough to not have any slop, but loose enough to still move.

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      #17
      check the pedal assembly for cracks. This happened to me and would destroy ever cylinder installed, miss shifts, and other weird clutch pedal issues. i have a video on youtube,
      [1991, E-30 325i, 5-Speed, M20, Brillantrot] [1998, B5 Passat 1.8t] [2007, R6 Yamaha] [2011, Tundra 5.7]

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        #18
        Andrew, I agree with that 100%. In fact I already went back and loosened it to just that amount. Turbo, I agree it is a good idea to check for cracks. Gunsnbacon said I have a crack. All I was saying was I checked and saw none.
        Last edited by usualdeviant; 05-22-2018, 08:39 AM. Reason: Good times

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          #19
          Gunsnbacon saw a crack that I didn't. You were right, my pedal bracket does have a crack, right where the master bolts onto it. Seen this on an older Toyota pickup not too long ago. It was all rusted though. Looks like this is an E30 weak point. So I'll weld it and reinforce it. Funny thing is it just started leaking today. Out of the inlet. Brand new master, brand new inlet connector. I wonder what's up with that. Just gonna have to try another new connector & hose and see what happens.

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            #20
            Do you have a clutch stop? Client's race car was constantly breaking the masters and they would have to finish the endurance races w/o the clutch. He finally brought the car by to see why. Turned out he had removed the clutch stop which was allowing the master to hyper extend. Stuck a 10mm x 1.5 bolt in the clutch stop hole and screwed it in until just past clutch release point, never broke another.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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              #21
              I'm gonna go ahead and put my clutch stop back in then, can't hurt. Also found out my leaking is because I spliced 2 sections of clutch hose together, not a tight enough connection where they meet. Going with new hose, new connector, new pedal bracket that I'm about to reinforce. Going to reinforce my old one too, maybe sell it.

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                #22
                Can you outline the crack on your previous pic?
                1990 325i
                2004 330i Individual 6-speed
                sigpic


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                  #23
                  I could but it's easier to just tell you where to look. It's the rust colored thing just to the right of the master cylinder where the pushrod comes out. You know, kinda like 3:00.

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                    #24
                    ^Ah Ok. Thanks!!
                    1990 325i
                    2004 330i Individual 6-speed
                    sigpic


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                      #25
                      Shot some pix today, took the old bracket out, compared it to the new one. Going to weld/reinforce both, then primer and paint. Anyway check it out. Bonus: broken plastic piece on clutch pedal spring.





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                        #26
                        this was one of the hardest repair i have done on my e30, as the steering rack had to be dropped - how did the repair go?
                        [1991, E-30 325i, 5-Speed, M20, Brillantrot] [1998, B5 Passat 1.8t] [2007, R6 Yamaha] [2011, Tundra 5.7]

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                          #27
                          Sorry I don't get on here much. Anyway it went well. Having a variety of tools helps. Are you talking about replacing the clutch master cylinder? I did not have to drop the rack to do that. I do remember using an 11mm crowfoot/extension/ratchet to loosen/tighten the flare nut on the outlet of it. Too tight a space for a flare nut wrench.

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