Replacing CSB and Guibo - What else to do ?

[bala_eos]

The car is a '87 325i :

I am planning on doing the following maintenance :

1. Replacing the CSB
2. Replacing the Guibo
3. Replacing the shifter bushing (stock shifter is fine by me).
4. Also, I will be changing the differential too.

Considering that half the drivetrain will be out of the car, is there any thing else that I should do "while I am there" ? Probably thinking about the seals on the transmission and stuff.

Thanks,
Bala

[FredK]

I'd leave the transmission seals alone until you have to do a clutch job, unless it is leaking like crazy. Otherwise it looks like you have everything pretty much covered.

[JGood]

Don't forget exhaust gaskets and extra exhaust nuts since you have to remove that. You may want to do the diff seals if they are leaking. Also double check your reverse light switch, make sure that works nicely. I would do every shifter bushing/clip/washer you can. It makes it feel much nicer.

[bala_eos]

Thanks guys. I didn't think of the reverse light switch.

One question in changing the differential - is it possible to do it by one person or will I need another person to help me out ?

[FredK]

The differential swap can definitely be done with one person. When it comes time to lower it, balance it on a floor jack and slowly lower it down.

[JGood]

The differential swap can definitely be done with one person. When it comes time to lower it, balance it on a floor jack and slowly lower it down.

If you are going to do this, be EXTREMELY careful. If you are using a small floor jack with a 3 inch lift point, it is very difficult to balance. I'm a small guy at 140 lbs, and I've pulled lots of diff's by myself, with a small jack, but each time it's a scary situation. If that thing rolls onto your head, you can say goodnight at the very least.

[FredK]

Haha, I'm not big either. I have a floor jack with a decently large saddle, probably 4" in diameter. But still, I made sure I was pretty far away from the diff when I loosened the last bolt up top. I then got out from underneath the car and lowered the jack. So, if it tipped over, no big deal.

After lowering it, I wheeled it out from underneath the car, then moved it from one end of the garage to the other. So, it was decently stable. I probably wouldn't try this with a cheap floor jack with a small (say 2" diameter) saddle.

[Jand3rson]

When you remove your driveshaft, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, make sure you mark where the two halves go together BEFORE you take it apart. Otherwise you won't know where to properly align it, and your driveshaft will be out of balance. And like JGood said, definitely get all the shifter linkage and stuff while you're under there, replace every clip, bushing and piece of hardware, it will feel like night and day. If you don't already have an SSK, get one and install it while you've got everything out.

[bala_eos]

Thanks for the responses guys.

I prefer tall shifter. So, I am not sure I want to go with an SSK. I am planning on rebuilding the shifter with new bushings though. For carrier bushings, I plan to go with UUC's Delrin bushings. For all other's, stock/OEM is what I am planning.

Is there any one vendor who carries all these items ?

Also, any "must have"/special tools that I should get before getting started ?

[FredK]

Pelican (www.pelicanparts.com) will carry all of the items necessary to do your swap, if you want to get all of the parts from the same vendor.

You might want a pipe wrench to loosen the large cap that holds the driveshaft spline in place.

[87-325ic]

and that wonderful 30mm, deep well thin-walled socket for the rear tranny flange.

[Joey Link]

What's the above mentioned socket required for?

[DJB]

What's the above mentioned socket required for?

The transmission output flange has the nut deeply recessed in a tight bore that limits the outside diameter of the socket. The transmission output shaft has splines for the flange, threads for the nut, then narrows to an alignment pin to center the driveshaft. The 30mm socket has to be deep enough for this alignment pin.

Driveshaft transmission output flange nut
Socket needed 30mm (1-3/16" = 30.16) deep thin-walled socket
Maximum diameter 1.521" or 38.6mm OD, although 39mm may work
Interal relief: minimum diameter of 15.5mm to 70mm deep
ST Tools BMW3025 socket is 39.04mm OD, 16mm deep flats, 66mm deep, $40
Powerbuilt Tools Oil sender 1-3/16" 648445 $5.79 at partsamerica.com may work


Front wheel bearing nut 36mm socket 220 ftlbs
Rear wheel bearing nut 30mm socket

[smooth]

before you pull your driveshaft, check the u-joints and save yourself some labor if the rear one is bad. if you're swapping diffs, you can check your u-joint then. if it's bad, you'll need to go for a rebuild, which comes with a new CSB.

Was able to drop the driveshaft without doing anything to the exhaust.

[More&Faster]

before you pull your driveshaft, check the u-joints and save yourself some labor if the rear one is bad. if you're swapping diffs, you can check your u-joint then. if it's bad, you'll need to go for a rebuild, which comes with a new CSB.

Was able to drop the driveshaft without doing anything to the exhaust.

wait, what? how did you drop the driveshaft without touching the exhaust? to get it off you have to drop the front like 6" atleast, then pull forward, right? i've got mine all unbolted and i was about to try to pull off the exhaust but it's going to be near impossible because of the rust. is this really doable?