Chackita-chackita-chackita-chackita

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  • strad
    Wrencher
    • Jan 2007
    • 241

    #16
    Originally posted by llll1l1ll
    That means I gotta buy those huge fucking allen wrenches, lest the Getrag takes like a 1/4in square? Anybody know which size socket/wrench to get?
    My 92 Getrag 260 takes a 17 mm Allen wrench
    The current fleet:
    1992 325ic: 148k-171k miles
    1999 Chevrolet Tahoe LT 4WD, 114k-142k miles
    1984 MasterCraft Stars and Stripes Powerslot (not a car :D) PCM Ford 351W, 904 hours

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    • JeffR116
      Advanced Member
      • Jan 2007
      • 140

      #17
      My 325i chatters in neutral with the clutch out. It was my understanding that the dual mass flywheel was the culprit.

      Comment

      • JeffR116
        Advanced Member
        • Jan 2007
        • 140

        #18
        And for those that will say that the 'i' didn't come with a dual mass flywheel, view this thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ight=dual+mass

        Comment

        • llll1l1ll
          Mod Crazy
          • Dec 2003
          • 782

          #19
          Originally posted by NC325iC
          ok heres how to test the tob
          in neurtral let the clutch out hear the noise
          now if the noise goes away from just lightly pressing the pedal ie not going past the engagement point, its your TOB

          if the noise goes away only after you pass the engagement point then its the input shaft bearing/normal gear noise

          and im gonna say this again, the noise from the input shaft bearing is normal in transmissions this old and you shouldnt worry about it.
          What are you talking about? I think you may have misread this my original post. I mean, my car has always made the input shaft noise, that never bothered me. I'm talking about after I push the clutch in, no matter what gear. The clutch is on the floor now, and the input shaft noise goes away. Then I wait about 1.5/2 seconds and this awful sound starts coming from the clutch area, like I am grinding gears; however, I am not touching the gear lever and the car is at idle. When the gears start to catch, like when I am starting to actually drive and letting the clutch out, the noise goes away, although it varies in pitch according to RPM. In fact, there is a pre-emptive noise as the clutch is in, like a very high pitched squeaky sound that I can barely hear, right before the grindy noise starts.

          ...You gave me hope that it wasn't my TOB... I wish I could drive my car and not have to worry about the TOB seizing. I had to drive to work today and my car sounded like it had straight-cuts in 3rd... Another problem??
          Last edited by llll1l1ll; 02-01-2007, 06:18 PM. Reason: I farted GL5
          Me: "I can't wait to redline my car!"
          Mark: "Didn't you just break a rocker arm?"
          Me: "Yeah, I don't think I've learned my lesson."
          Mark: "You never will."

          Comment

          • Spinning Tires
            Wrencher
            • Feb 2007
            • 283

            #20
            It's definately the dual mass flywheel my eta and both of my i's have done it. mostly when you first turn the car off. i looked it up on all data once and it said something along the lines of "the benefits of the dual mass flywheel are much greater then it's defects (the rattle) so deal with it". it only did it at idle when i had a vacuum leak and my idle was fucked up though
            First: 1984 318i
            Second: 1987 325
            Third: 1987 325is
            Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)

            Comment

            • smooth
              E30 Mastermind
              • Apr 2005
              • 1940

              #21
              Originally posted by llll1l1ll
              What are you talking about? I think you may have misread this my original post. I mean, my car has always made the input shaft noise, that never bothered me. I'm talking about after I push the clutch in, no matter what gear. The clutch is on the floor now, and the input shaft noise goes away. Then I wait about 1.5/2 seconds and this awful sound starts coming from the clutch area, like I am grinding gears; however, I am not touching the gear lever and the car is at idle. When the gears start to catch, like when I am starting to actually drive and letting the clutch out, the noise goes away, although it varies in pitch according to RPM. In fact, there is a pre-emptive noise as the clutch is in, like a very high pitched squeaky sound that I can barely hear, right before the grindy noise starts.

              ...You gave me hope that it wasn't my TOB... I wish I could drive my car and not have to worry about the TOB seizing. I had to drive to work today and my car sounded like it had straight-cuts in 3rd... Another problem??

              Did you ever get this diagnosed and fixed?
              I can tell you only this: driveline noise can travel all over the place...

              That means, what you're hearing from the gearbox could actually be coming from the diff. At least, the noise you're describing, and where you're placing it, was my exact problem...and that was diff noise.

              I'm not saying yours is diff noise, necessarily. Just that it's difficult to locate noise until you lift that car and grab an auto stethoscope.
              Das ist nicht nur nicht richtig, es ist nicht einmal falsch!

              Comment

              • DJB
                Advanced Member
                • Oct 2005
                • 195

                #22
                Originally posted by llll1l1ll
                my car has always made the input shaft noise, that never bothered me.
                OK, so we have eliminated the "Getrag rattle". It's there, but you know to eliminate it as a problem. (BTW, I think it's the aft layshaft bearing, not the input bearing, but that's not important here.)

                Originally posted by llll1l1ll
                I'm talking about after I push the clutch in, no matter what gear. The clutch is on the floor now, and the input shaft noise goes away. Then I wait about 1.5/2 seconds and this awful sound starts coming from the clutch area, like I am grinding gears; however, I am not touching the gear lever and the car is at idle.
                OK, first eliminiate the possibility of the clutch hydraulics leaking down. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor for a minute. If it returns on its own, the clutch hydraulics are working.

                There are two bearings under load when the clutch is disengaged. The throw-out bearing has already been mentioned. The clutch fork always has a rotation relative to a spinning pressure plate on a running engine, so you would hear a bad bearing immediately.

                The other is the pilot bearing. My guess is that you are hearing a toasted pilot bearing. You don't hear it initially because the transmission input shaft is spinning at the same speed as the crankshaft. Only as the two change relative speeds does the bearing let out its death scream.

                Does this match your symptoms?
                What happens when you put the engine RPMs at 5K and disengage the clutch?

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