Clutch WILL NOT Bleed

[jlevie]

Good to know you found the problem. I suspected something like that...

[DJB]

Some people don't seem to believe it, but the clutch hydraulic system is self-bleeding once you have enough fluid in the system to move the clutch. Any air bubble is forced out when the clutch is released. A spongy clutch is never air in the system (unless you have a leaky seal and new air is getting in with every push).

[JGood]

Some people don't seem to believe it, but the clutch hydraulic system is self-bleeding once you have enough fluid in the system to move the clutch. Any air bubble is forced out when the clutch is released. A spongy clutch is never air in the system (unless you have a leaky seal and new air is getting in with every push).

Alright, then what is causing it? Remember - new master and slave, lower and upper lines, and fluid. Twice. Still spongy.

[DJB]

I would first suspect the new "stainless steel" hose, then the diaphragm spring.
Did you replace the nylon pivot point? Check for cracking on the stamped steel fork?

An EPDM hose with internal aramid fiber reinforcement has the potential to expand less under pressure than a hose with external stainless steel braid. Stainless steel hoses are mostly vanity bling unless you are protecting the hose from a sharp edge cutting through.

[Hick]

I got a serious air pocket out of my clutch line by taking off the reservoir cap and standing by while a fine strikingly handsome friend of mine pushed the slave down very slowly.

FIXED

[JGood]

I would first suspect the new "stainless steel" hose, then the diaphragm spring.
Did you replace the nylon pivot point? Check for cracking on the stamped steel fork?

An EPDM hose with internal aramid fiber reinforcement has the potential to expand less under pressure than a hose with external stainless steel braid. Stainless steel hoses are mostly vanity bling unless you are protecting the hose from a sharp edge cutting through.

As I said, the stainless line was the problem with the clutch return speed, and it has been replaced by the stock hose.

The pivot pit is new and the release fork has very minimal wear. Sachs clutch is new. All of this was done a few thousand miles ago.

So what exactly would be the result of an air pocket in the system? The pedal won't be spongy, how will it react? Just stay to the floor? Not release the disk/pressure plate fully?

[Madhatter]

Depends on how big an air pocket, it could either stick to the floor and you will have to pull the pedal back up with your foot, or the pedal travels to the floor and returns but the clutch doesnt disengage properly.

[MikeD]

I was having the same problem. I finally removed the slave cylinder and pumped it without opening the bleed screw. It pushed the air up the hose to the reservoir. I then bled it the regular way and thepedal went limp again. The clutch line is very sensitive to the fluid level in the reservoir. You almost have to overfill the brake reservoir to cover the clutch supply line. I took the slave off again, pushed the air out and left it. It works just like it did before the swap. I keep the reservoir topped off to prevent air getting into the clutch line.

[BMWDriver]

I'm not sure if I'm having a bleeding problem or have a bad master or slave. my clutch hit the floor and never came back up, i checked the reservoir and found the fluid at the minimum level so i added fluid and pumped the clutch a million times it would start to get some pressure but not enough to return the pedal fully operate the clutch and then would eventually go flat. after doing some reading i pulled the slave and could not find any signs of leaking. i compressed the piston several times which resulted in fluid spitting out of the top of the reservoir (cap was on) but after reinstalling the pedal was still staying on the floor. i looked up under the dash at the master and again no signs of leaking.

so whats the deal do i need to replace either of the cylinders?

do i need to just fill the reservoir and let it "self bleed" as others claim it will do.


** the fluid was low from when i had done my rear wheel bearing and bled the brakes but did not re-fill the reservoir since it was still with in range and i had no fluid.

[jlevie]

so whats the deal do i need to replace either of the cylinders?

You need to replace the master cylinder.