Clutch/tranny overhaul questions

[Jordan325iC]

Tools
1) Where can I order the thin-wall 30mm deep socket?

2) I am going to go buy extensions/swivel joints for this project. What size extensions do you recommend? Anything special?

Parts
I own or have ordered these parts:
-Clutch/pressure plate/TO bearing/alignment tool (spec stage 3)
-Technafit SS clutch line
-Pelican parts shifter bushings kit

And I am about to order from AZautohaus:
Clutch Fork; Fork Lever for Clutch Release Bearing $11.35 21511204229
Clutch Slave Cylinder $30.97 21521116300
Crankshaft Oil Seal; Rear Crank Cover Gasket, Metal $2.90 11141432240
Crankshaft Oil Seal; Rear; 90x110x12mm $6.34 11141706785
Flywheel Bolt; 12x28mm ($2.30 x8 ) $18.40 11221717840
Input Shaft Oil Seal; 35x52x7mm $5.46 23121220619
Output Shaft Bearing; Lock Plate for Flange Nut ( $1.48 x2 ) $2.96 23211490120
Output Shaft Oil Seal; 40x55x8mm $2.55 23121205340
Selector Shaft Seal; 15x21x5mm $2.72 23111204223

3) Am I missing anything important? Do I really need to buy all 8 flywheel bolts (nearly $20!) or should I just get one or two in case one breaks?

Procedure

4) The Pelican Parts article seems comprehensive, but I can't tell if it's for an e30 or an e36. Do I really need to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter? I think I heard that the Bently doesn't cover some step.

5) How can I tell if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced?

[Jordan325iC]

Eh? If somebody can just tell me where to order the thin wall 30mm, that would be great.

[nefarious7907]

I dont think you can order one, since nearly any 30mm socket is going to be an impact, you like everyone else are going to have grind the outside wall of the socket down.

The flywheel needs to be resurfaced in the least, balancing and lightening dont cost much more.

Pelicans article is on the E36.

I paid less than that from BMA for the flywheel bolts.

[Tobin]

I got the thin walled 30mm deep from the BMW dealer. Try calling them

[Jordan325iC]

Well, I got the clutch in and everything is gravy. It wasn't that hard of a job. Not nearly as terrifying as I had been led to believe. I'll answer my own questions:

1) I got the 30mm deep socket at PepBoys, then held it to a cinder block with a C-clamp and used an angle grinder to grind the outsides down to size.

2) I went to sears and bought a single 20" 3/8" extension and one swivel joint. With the tranny dropped down that was long enough to reach those back bolts. I also bought a four piece adapter kit (1/4"to3/8", 1/2"to3/8", ect...) that came in handy.

3) Flywheel bolts are "stretch to yield" bolts, and are only supposed to be used once. I didn't realize this until I was putting everything back together, and mine is fine.

4) You don't need to remove the intake manifold to get to the starter bolts, just the intake boot.

5) Look for scoring/warping. Mine looked OK and I was on a super-rush deadline, so I just cleaned it with some brake cleaner (use nothing else) and that's it.


The bolts in the back were tough to reach, but not impossible. I didn't have any problems.

It would be very helpful to have another person with you when you're doing the starter bolts and putting the tranny back in.

[PiercedE30]

Nice. How do you like the Spec ST. 3? I'm loving mine.

[Sean]

Yes, you need to use new flywheel bolts each time. $20 is nice security to know your flywheel wont be falling off and destroying your car!

[devonjordan]

Yes, you need to use new flywheel bolts each time. $20 is nice security to know your flywheel wont be falling off and destroying your car!

That might be an interesting thing to watch though...

[nefarious7907]

How do you like it?

[Jordan325iC]

I love it. Feels like stock but holds my current 280ft/lbs with ease. It takes just a little more finesse to get smooth starts, but it's not uncivilized. No drivability problems.