No, it usually takes about 100+pumps of the clutch pedal to self bleed. That's why I don't do it that way. In fact, I don't know that I ever even touched a bleeder in any BMW hydraulic clutch, and work on them every day for the last 11yr. However, did develop a leak in my personal car many years ago and was topping off the fluid until I could get my car into an open bay at work. If I forgot and got air, would just top off and self bleed, but it takes forever. You can have a friend pump the clutch pedal and shine a light into the reservoir, and you can physically see the bubbles coming out if the blue cloth braided hose.
As an alternative, it's so much easier to get under there and remove the 2 13mm nuts, and the Getrag has little squares cast in the housing that makes a good spot to plunge the slave. After pushing it in and out about 10x, your will hear the "squishing" stop, then I do a couple more for good luck. Pop the slave in, and you will have a full pedal and bled clutch immediately.
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Post-Manual Swap --> Inconsistent Clutch Travel?
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostOP, take your slave out of the transmission and plunge the rod in numerous times, and you will hear when the "bubbles" stop flowing, releasing all the air in the system.
Here's what happened when I initially installed everything: pressed the clutch in and out like 5 times and boom, consistent pedal pressure. I didn't even have to pop the bleed screw on the slave.
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OP, take your slave out of the transmission and plunge the rod in numerous times, and you will hear when the "bubbles" stop flowing, releasing all the air in the system.
Originally posted by zaq123 View Post
throwout........pilot is just sitting there and has no effect on the engagement point. Now that I reminded myself of this, all US e30s had shorter 25mm bearing, taller 30mm came on Euro 320i, 323i. Unless you used different flywheel or something
here is good read anyway http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146241
However, I have run into engagement issues when using a disc and pressure plate from 2 different clutch kits. Not all clutch kits are the same dimensionally. There are 7-9mm thick discs and the pressure plate outer spring stack will compensate. Two years ago we had a new driver for the Sebring 14 hour, and he managed to blow TWO clutches during his two driving stints. We had a spare, but then had to ask other racers to purchase parts for the second clutch change. The disk and PP didn't match as a kit and the clutch would release right on the floor. Once we got home and took the car back apart, we compared all the PP's and discs and the answer was obvious.
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Originally posted by Zambuzan View Post
Pilot bearing? Or throwout?
Thanks.
here is good read anyway http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=146241
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Originally posted by Zambuzan View Posttl;dr - Clutch pedal rests closer to the floor the more I drive the car. Also biting point is literally at the top. What gives?
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tl;dr - Clutch pedal rests closer to the floor the more I drive the car. Also biting point is literally at the top. What gives?
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Post-Manual Swap --> Inconsistent Clutch Travel?
So I am having this odd occurrence after my manual swap. Although it might not be odd, as this is all quite new to me...
Basically, the more I drive my car the closer the clutch pedal gets to the floor..
The other day I noticed that my clutch pedal was resting much lower than my brake pedal, so I decided to pull the clutch pedal all the way upwards with my hand. When I did that, the pedal started resting much higher than where it was 5 seconds ago AND the biting point turns to literally 2mm before the pedal travels all the way to the top resting position...
What gives? I thought that this type of biting point only occurs when the car's clutch disk is really worn...
This has happened twice now, where I notice that the clutch pedal is much lower than the brake pedal so I pull the clutch pedal up, and then it completely changes the biting point and where the clutch rests... So the more I drive it the less clutch pedal travel I have...
I used all new OEM parts (Sachs clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, etc etc)
Yes, I've already checked:
-fluid reservoir (level hasn't fluctuated)
-slave cylinder
-clutch fork retaining clip
-pedal assembly (master cylinder, etc.)
-trans fluid
-trans brace/mount
-blinker fluid
-rear battery tray location (unrelated, but your's is rusty too bro)
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