Shifter feel improvement

[hteverow]

Hey guys--

Just picked up my touring from the shop. It received, among other things, the Garagistic delrin shifter kit with all add-ons, new selector joint, etc. The shifter feels a lot better than before, but still not exactly what I'm looking for. I do not have a DSSR installed.

I don't know if anyone's driven Hondas from the '90s, or a Mazda Miata, but those shifters feel wonderful to me--light, tight, snickety, short-throw, etc. My shifter is at OEM+ specs right now, with entirely fresh components, and still feels kinda rubbery.

What should I do to get rid of that rubberband feel and make it feel more Japanese sports car? Should I just wait for the components to get "broken in" a bit? I've read about the UUC SSK, and the Z3 shifter swap, and wonder about weighted ZHP knobs as well.

Anyone with any advice?

Thanks!

[roguetoaster]

A heavier/shorter shift knob can help, but I'd verify that all components were actually replaced if you still have iffy feel. The position of the shims on the shift rod also matters to feel, and you can adjust that a bit to clean up slop.

If they have all been changed you may just have a transmission that's a bit balky.

[mtech325]

A DSSR will help tighten up the BMW shift linkage. My 24v car with a ZF trans and e60 shift lever feels a lot more precise after installing the DSSR. I even installed a DSSR in my m20 car with the stock long throw e30 lever and it made a vast improvement as well. You might get close, but I think it'll be tough to match the shift action of cars like the S2000 or Miata that have the linkage directly part of the transmission though.

[hteverow]

My transmission / whole car is at 80,000 miles, so I don't think any of the detent pins need servicing yet. The shop has an excellent reputation and I have no doubt they actually did the work--they did quite a few other things, and the car feels transformed from when I first purchased it. I might try a DSSR and a Z3 shift lever, which seems like a budget version of an UUC SSK.

[medgingt]

Did they replace the shift lever? If not then you're not at "as-new"--the shift lever is a wear item. I'd also check the new lever for slop...it seems they're making them with extra isolation these days.
It won't reach miata levels, but it should get close or match an older Honda--they both have very similar style linkage. The Honda's is just a lot longer.

[hteverow]

Did they replace the shift lever? If not then you're not at "as-new"--the shift lever is a wear item. I'd also check the new lever for slop...it seems they're making them with extra isolation these days.
It won't reach miata levels, but it should get close or match an older Honda--they both have very similar style linkage. The Honda's is just a lot longer.

They didn't replace the lever, no. I am strongly considering either the UUC short shifter kit or the Garagistic short shifter kit to improve this. I don't want to get a used Z3 lever and have it still be sloppy, I'd rather get the best parts in there and know that it's as good as it can be. Open to recommendations about UUC vs Garagistic vs whatever else there is for this.

[JehTehsus]

I have a UUC shifter and when I put it in it was definitely considerably better, but also not really where I wanted it. I ended up adding a DSSR and now I think it is perfect, although I do occasionally need to tighten the screws on the UUC shifter which is annoying, otherwise it starts to feel sloppy in neutral.

The DSSR definitely made a big difference in my case.

[nando]

I'd get a new Z3 lever and DSSR. the DSSR actually doesn't just tighten things up - it also reduces wear on the bushings (because, double shear).

Adjustable is fine, but I wouldn't want to have to deal with things coming lose etc. I'm not into extremely notchy, and the Z3 lever is pretty good out of the box to me.

[jbontke]

I'd get a new Z3 lever and DSSR. the DSSR actually doesn't just tighten things up - it also reduces wear on the bushings (because, double shear).

Adjustable is fine, but I wouldn't want to have to deal with things coming lose etc. I'm not into extremely notchy, and the Z3 lever is pretty good out of the box to me.

Does this suggestion apply to both early (plate) and late (beam) shifters?

[nando]

the difference there is mostly the shift carrier, not the lever or the shifter arm itself. Those work basically the same.

[glnr13]

for what it's worth, if you're into it, cutting the early plate up and mounting it to the interior of the trans tunnel is an insane improvement multiplied with a DSSR

[hteverow]

I have a UUC shifter and when I put it in it was definitely considerably better, but also not really where I wanted it. I ended up adding a DSSR and now I think it is perfect, although I do occasionally need to tighten the screws on the UUC shifter which is annoying, otherwise it starts to feel sloppy in neutral.

The DSSR definitely made a big difference in my case.

That settles it, then. UUC + DSSR is what I'll be going with. And I'll make sure to write you complaint letters once a week if it doesn't result in the shifter feeling exactly how I want it!

[JehTehsus]

That settles it, then. UUC + DSSR is what I'll be going with. And I'll make sure to write you complaint letters once a week if it doesn't result in the shifter feeling exactly how I want it!

It is pretty great, and being adjustable helps. The DSSR makes it perfect.

Also be sure to refresh the rear coupling/bracket with the integrated grommet, this was a bit annoying if you don't drop the drive shaft but it is definitely a key part of the process.

Like I said though, I find the small screws on the cup slowly come loose, so you may find yourself needing to tighten them every so often (although now that I think about it maybe some blue loctite would work well, I will probably do that the next time it gets annoying).

[jbontke]

for what it's worth, if you're into it, cutting the early plate up and mounting it to the interior of the trans tunnel is an insane improvement multiplied with a DSSR

I did this and it's ok. Pain in the ass to do as you have to remove the exhaust, heat shielding, and driveshaft. Lots of under the car and inside the car to figure out how much to cut and positioning. I mounted the plate under the car. I was trying and keep the DSSR level. It kind of worked, ran into issue with the shifter not being able to move through all positions without contacting the chassis. Lots of adjustment and then got it right. I replace my worn motor mounts and ran into chassis contact issues again. Not a great time. I suggest rebuild what you got or buy one done. It will save you time.

Also: I did not use an aftermarket DSSR, kept the OEM shift selector rod. New trans shift rod connector as well. Turns out the shift rod was worn so the shifter, while firm, was still sloppy. So for those reading, your OEM DSSR will wear. Get a new or aftermarket DSSR.

[AndryBismarck]

In practice, the DSSR will help to tighten the gear lever and will be much more accurate. After installing the DSSR in my motor trader car with long throw, the shifting situation has improved significantly.
When I was working on my transmission, I needed a repair, put the UUC, it was definitely much better, but not quite where I wanted it. And I also added DSSR, and now I think it's perfect, I don't travel so much to talk about shortcomings, but it suits me. So the DSSR definitely made a big difference I agree with others.