Finally Another Overpriced M60/2 Swap

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  • Ljhnh75
    Noobie
    • Oct 2024
    • 10

    #1

    Finally Another Overpriced M60/2 Swap

    And so it begins…
    Time for another m6x swap, it seems like these swaps are rarely happening these days, swap specific parts are becoming far harder to find, and OE stuff is getting more expensive every day. Thanks to the homies Frank, Julian, and Jean, I’ve spent far more hours than I’m willing to admit going through all of your builds, and making a gameplan for what I’m doing, and finally the ball is rolling so I figured it was time for the ol' girl to get her own thread. I've already spent e92 m3 donor price so far, so I don't recommend anyone go this route, I'm just stubborn XD
    I​​

    The victim is my currently m42 swapped 1990 318I Touring, she’s a certified shitbox fr, she's got some MILES, her paint is hurt, she’s got some crust, or what us northerners like to call “character” or “weight reduction”, but I've been known as a staunch believer in the "I can save her" mindset. I hate doing big projects and having to order things over the course of a year while figuring things out along the way, so I’ve been working on ironing out all of the knowns and unknowns of the swap, and In my head I feel like I’m about 95% done with planning, so realistically I’m probably about 75% there haha

    For a broad overview, the goal is a fresh M60B44 build, hack apart my 98 m62NV harness (for now), run with a Maxx ECU, custom c101 adapter, 420g 6 speed, and once that’s in the car and moving, there will be more goodies in the future.

    PHASE 1: As I said, I’ve tried to prep the car as much as possible whilst still keeping it driving before the engine has to come out. So far what’s done is H&R sports with B8’s, ST sway bar set, 3.15 Torsen, reinforced, fully blasted and POR coated the front and rear subframe, , Revshift 95a front to rear, every ball joint, bushing, and bearing has been replaced, yellow tag rack, solid steering shaft conversion, all brand new factory brake components from the calipers to the masters, new fuel system from the tank to the rail, Wilwood pedal box with the Garagistic booster delete (WITH a stiff pedal, I know crazy), new wheels and tires (KE Motorsport L14 15x7 Spec E30 wheels & 205/50r15 ExtremeContact Sport 02’s) which I’m sure will be interesting with the v8, chassis mounted shifter with an adjustable DSSR that I hope is short enough to work with the 6 speed, and I’m sure there’s plenty of other things I’m forgetting right now, other than all of the countless other dumb things I’ve poured money into like my sound system, slight cosmetic things, interior bits and bobs etc.

    PHASE 2: This is where we are at now, and it includes getting everything that I can ready to go in the car before I pull the engine out. Ordering as many of the parts as i possibly can, stripping down the engines and making them one, shed some weight out of the Harness, pin on my C101 (no x20 on m62, its a bunch of other smaller plugs), do all the detents in the trans, etc.

    As of now, I've acquired my 98 M62B44, a 94 M60B40, Z3M radiator, full gasket and timing set for the engine, e39 540/6 420g, PSPerformance e30 swap headers, Cybul single mass flywheel and clutch and a bunch of other small things that ill go over as it comes together. Still need to order new connectors, a couple of new sensors, ECU, ignition drivers, widebands, and the thing I still haven't decided upon, is which expansion tank I want to run. So far I've narrowed it down to my two options, either run an early or late e30 tank, move the battery to the back, run the feed from the water pump outlet and try and figure out some heater core hose setup to the m62 rear crossover with the two outlets, drill and tap the crossover to take the CTS and gauge sensor, or I run the E34 tank, factory hoses, plug off the two extra outlets and the water pump outlet and use the sensors in the already tapped holes. I do like this option more, i am just not a fan of cutting up the hood and also having absolutely no clearance to mess with any of the hoses underneath.

    I plan to go much more in depth and keep updating this thread as I move forward, mostly for me, as most of the OG's have all must've got old and disappeared from R3V (come back we miss you) but anyone with helpful insight or any questions, bring it here!
  • dirty30
    No R3VLimiter
    • Jul 2004
    • 3104

    #2
    I'll be watching, personally I'd mount the tank in the battery tray. I never liked the cowl mounted one, its already pretty crowded up there. I found my chassis mounted shifter extremely notchy with the 6 speed, I'm actually going to tackle that next in my ongoing refresh of my car by modifying an E39 carrier and going back to a stock shifter. I'm getting old and can't drive the racecar shit any more on the street lol

    Carry on!

    Comment

    • Ljhnh75
      Noobie
      • Oct 2024
      • 10

      #3
      Originally posted by dirty30
      I'll be watching, personally I'd mount the tank in the battery tray. I never liked the cowl mounted one, its already pretty crowded up there. I found my chassis mounted shifter extremely notchy with the 6 speed, I'm actually going to tackle that next in my ongoing refresh of my car by modifying an E39 carrier and going back to a stock shifter. I'm getting old and can't drive the racecar shit any more on the street lol

      Carry on!
      I’m definitely leaning towards that as well, Ill probably try and see if I can make it work with some 3/4” 135 degree elbows, 1” hose, and couplers, and as for the shifter, I’ve had that thought as well, but that’s a bridge I’ll cross once it becomes an issue. I got the shifter for free from a customer with an e46 m3 that I put a coolerworx on, and IIRC that is also a 420g and it was tolerable with the normal chassis mount with it fully lengthened, but the self centering one is brutal.

      Comment

      • Ljhnh75
        Noobie
        • Oct 2024
        • 10

        #4
        So I’ve finally got the M60 torn down, I knew it was gonna be a gamble using an unknown mileage junkyard tear out, but I swear the previous owner was doing 20,000 mile oil changes, I haven’t seen heads caked like this that weren’t SBC’s with conventional oil that sat for decades. The cam journals are less than optimal, but as long as everything goes back where it came out of, it should be ok for a while. The valves and lifters appear to be in decent shape but i wont know for sure until i clean everything up and really inspect, ill also have the machine shop check the spring pressures as i have no idea how long the engine sat without being turned over. I probably wont get the heads pressure tested as it was still full of coolant and oil when i opened it up, the coolant seemed brand new, and the oil did not appear to have any contamination. I had plans to spend a couple hours with a die grinder de-shrouding the ports and cleaning up around the guides, but as of now, that’s up in the air, because if I do want to throw cams in this in the future, I’m not going to want to risk them in these heads, unless i can get the journals to clean up pretty nice.
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        This is your friendly reminder to do that oil change that you've been putting off doing for months!​​
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        In the meantime, I’m gonna attempt to get everything cleaned up as best as I can, get it all ready for the machine shop, and start teardown on the M62 so I can start getting fresh gaskets and new M60 timing components on it. I also have some slight gremlins id like to figure out on my car like the rear wiper/washer not working and the mirrors.​​

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