Originally posted by coolasacuc
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Originally posted by HellzMindPlaya View PostSo sorry for asking questions I probably should just be better scouring the internet for but I am asking anyways because I want a simple answer...
My donor motor (if I so choose to go crazy and do a swap of this magnitude) would be out of a 1995 (late 94 build date) 740. I saw your lovely exhaust manifolds, but why can't I just use the ones that came with the motor? Are they too wide to sit between the frame rails? I know they didn't want to come up through the 740 frame rails when I pulled the motor, but they sat beneath the frame rails in the 740, so it really didn't matter that they were to wide until I went to pull the motor. Or are you running those manifolds because otherwise you would have to fight with the subframe and the swaybar?
Any insight? I don't weld all that well, and will have some help, but I really don't want to have to make my own exhaust manifolds.
They won't fit without modifications (they interfere with at least steering shaft and supporting arms, probably also with side frames and stabilizer) and because they're "double layer", welding them properly is harder than normal welding..
Here's one funny pic :) http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/atta...1&d=1218515711
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So sorry for asking questions I probably should just be better scouring the internet for but I am asking anyways because I want a simple answer...
My donor motor (if I so choose to go crazy and do a swap of this magnitude) would be out of a 1995 (late 94 build date) 740. I saw your lovely exhaust manifolds, but why can't I just use the ones that came with the motor? Are they too wide to sit between the frame rails? I know they didn't want to come up through the 740 frame rails when I pulled the motor, but they sat beneath the frame rails in the 740, so it really didn't matter that they were to wide until I went to pull the motor. Or are you running those manifolds because otherwise you would have to fight with the subframe and the swaybar?
Any insight? I don't weld all that well, and will have some help, but I really don't want to have to make my own exhaust manifolds.
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Yeah I started posting on the zone a few days ago. I might even start a thread over here; not many people have done it in America.
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Sry, no pics of the minimoto.
Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View PostSweet, I think I'm doing it. Found a crunched e38 740il for $200 a town up from me.
Mind if I pm you with questions along the way? I get the main gist of things from the e30.de writeup, but there's some things that get lost in translation.
Yea sure, but maybe it'd be better to post the questions here so the information would be available to everyone?
There're couple of good threads about M6x swaps on www.e30zone.net also, they're worth checking ;)
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Originally posted by Jonsku View Post
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Sweet, I think I'm doing it. Found a crunched e38 740il for $200 a town up from me.
Mind if I pm you with questions along the way? I get the main gist of things from the e30.de writeup, but there's some things that get lost in translation.
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Yea it's heat shield for the exhaust pipe. Not the most beautiful ones but they work fine.
Or did you mean the exhaust manifolds?
From this
to this
Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View PostDo you know if its possible to space the transmission up so that the angle of the drivetrain without a subframe spacer isn't so great? This sounds like a good route for me, as I need all the space I can get.
Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View PostAnd from one m30 owner to another, what do you think of the V8? I'm never quite satisfied driving my m30 car; It's quick, but never really fast. Hell, I got beat by a Hemi Jeep Cherokee once lol.
Are you satisfied with the m60?
I like it, but still i'm always thinking of S62 as an option...
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And from one m30 owner to another, what do you think of the V8? I'm never quite satisfied driving my m30 car; It's quick, but never really fast. Hell, I got beat by a Hemi Jeep Cherokee once lol.
Are you satisfied with the m60?
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Originally posted by Jonsku View PostThe lower part is about even with the front subframe when there's about 3mm clearance between subframe and oilpan.
You don't necessarily have to put spacers to the subframe, but then the engine-gearbox package will be quite tilted and covering plastics are very close to the hood.
The oilpan is much "shorter" than in M30 or M50 anyways, here's a pic from my engine / subframe:
As you see the oilpan doesn't stick out:
Do you know if its possible to space the transmission up so that the angle of the drivetrain without a subframe spacer isn't so great? This sounds like a good route for me, as I need all the space I can get.
Originally posted by weaksauce View Postnice.
what the hell is all that sheet metal that looks like someone built it out of HVAC duct work?
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nice.
what the hell is all that sheet metal that looks like someone built it out of HVAC duct work?
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Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View PostNow that we have a sane discussion going on in here, does anyone know how low an m60 pan is when mounted in an e30? I know you need to space the subframe so its probably pretty low.
Edit: Better yet would be the measurements from the ground to the pan and the distance from the center of the wheels to the fender lip.
You don't necessarily have to put spacers to the subframe, but then the engine-gearbox package will be quite tilted and covering plastics are very close to the hood.
The oilpan is much "shorter" than in M30 or M50 anyways, here's a pic from my engine / subframe:
As you see the oilpan doesn't stick out:
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Now that we have a sane discussion going on in here, does anyone know how low an m60 pan is when mounted in an e30? I know you need to space the subframe so its probably pretty low.
Edit: Better yet would be the measurements from the ground to the pan and the distance from the center of the wheels to the fender lip.Last edited by E30SPDFRK; 01-19-2010, 09:27 PM.
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Yeah E21 parts are hard to find out here 'cause nobody is keeping E21s on the road or salvaging parts any more. You used to see them all the time 10 years ago, now... :(
I think a van booster under the dash with a Tilton master cylinder above the battery tray will work best for my application. I've butchered the heater box to rip out air con a lot of wiring I don't need, plus I'm moving the loom, fuses/relays and ECU to where the back seat/floor was to give me more space in the engine bay and more space under the dash. Also shifts a bit of weight :)
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