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  • ThreeTwentyFissel
    replied
    Originally posted by coolasacuc View Post
    dont be gay.

    keep the 5.0s and ls1 in the cars they came in.
    + 1 So true, keep order at least where it matters, but too each its own.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonsku
    replied
    Originally posted by HellzMindPlaya View Post
    So sorry for asking questions I probably should just be better scouring the internet for but I am asking anyways because I want a simple answer...

    My donor motor (if I so choose to go crazy and do a swap of this magnitude) would be out of a 1995 (late 94 build date) 740. I saw your lovely exhaust manifolds, but why can't I just use the ones that came with the motor? Are they too wide to sit between the frame rails? I know they didn't want to come up through the 740 frame rails when I pulled the motor, but they sat beneath the frame rails in the 740, so it really didn't matter that they were to wide until I went to pull the motor. Or are you running those manifolds because otherwise you would have to fight with the subframe and the swaybar?

    Any insight? I don't weld all that well, and will have some help, but I really don't want to have to make my own exhaust manifolds.

    They won't fit without modifications (they interfere with at least steering shaft and supporting arms, probably also with side frames and stabilizer) and because they're "double layer", welding them properly is harder than normal welding..

    Here's one funny pic :) http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/atta...1&d=1218515711

    Leave a comment:


  • HellzMindPlaya
    replied
    So sorry for asking questions I probably should just be better scouring the internet for but I am asking anyways because I want a simple answer...

    My donor motor (if I so choose to go crazy and do a swap of this magnitude) would be out of a 1995 (late 94 build date) 740. I saw your lovely exhaust manifolds, but why can't I just use the ones that came with the motor? Are they too wide to sit between the frame rails? I know they didn't want to come up through the 740 frame rails when I pulled the motor, but they sat beneath the frame rails in the 740, so it really didn't matter that they were to wide until I went to pull the motor. Or are you running those manifolds because otherwise you would have to fight with the subframe and the swaybar?

    Any insight? I don't weld all that well, and will have some help, but I really don't want to have to make my own exhaust manifolds.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    Yeah I started posting on the zone a few days ago. I might even start a thread over here; not many people have done it in America.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonsku
    replied
    Sry, no pics of the minimoto.

    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    Sweet, I think I'm doing it. Found a crunched e38 740il for $200 a town up from me.

    Mind if I pm you with questions along the way? I get the main gist of things from the e30.de writeup, but there's some things that get lost in translation.
    200$ ? Damn that's cheap!

    Yea sure, but maybe it'd be better to post the questions here so the information would be available to everyone?

    There're couple of good threads about M6x swaps on www.e30zone.net also, they're worth checking ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • chadthestampede
    replied
    Originally posted by Jonsku View Post


    More pics of the hog in the top right corner?

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    Sweet, I think I'm doing it. Found a crunched e38 740il for $200 a town up from me.

    Mind if I pm you with questions along the way? I get the main gist of things from the e30.de writeup, but there's some things that get lost in translation.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonsku
    replied
    Yea it's heat shield for the exhaust pipe. Not the most beautiful ones but they work fine.

    Or did you mean the exhaust manifolds?

    From this



    to this




    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    Do you know if its possible to space the transmission up so that the angle of the drivetrain without a subframe spacer isn't so great? This sounds like a good route for me, as I need all the space I can get.
    Maybe with 5-speed transmission you could get it a bit higher, but at least with 6-speed you'd need to raise the gearbox tunnel. Otherwise it'll hit it (i've about 5mm clearance between gearbox and the tunnel).


    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    And from one m30 owner to another, what do you think of the V8? I'm never quite satisfied driving my m30 car; It's quick, but never really fast. Hell, I got beat by a Hemi Jeep Cherokee once lol.

    Are you satisfied with the m60?
    Yes i am. It has the great torque down low as did M30, but also it has the high rpm grunt which M30 didn't have. So it's quite a bit like S38 - torquey straight from idle and good power on higher rpm.

    I like it, but still i'm always thinking of S62 as an option...

    Leave a comment:


  • weaksauce
    replied
    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    Looks like downpipe heat shielding to me.
    facepalm. i feel stupid now......

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    And from one m30 owner to another, what do you think of the V8? I'm never quite satisfied driving my m30 car; It's quick, but never really fast. Hell, I got beat by a Hemi Jeep Cherokee once lol.

    Are you satisfied with the m60?

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    Originally posted by Jonsku View Post
    The lower part is about even with the front subframe when there's about 3mm clearance between subframe and oilpan.

    You don't necessarily have to put spacers to the subframe, but then the engine-gearbox package will be quite tilted and covering plastics are very close to the hood.

    The oilpan is much "shorter" than in M30 or M50 anyways, here's a pic from my engine / subframe:

    As you see the oilpan doesn't stick out:
    Nice, but that makes it about an inch lower than mine is now, as mine is slightly higher than the subframe without a spacer.

    Do you know if its possible to space the transmission up so that the angle of the drivetrain without a subframe spacer isn't so great? This sounds like a good route for me, as I need all the space I can get.
    Originally posted by weaksauce View Post
    nice.
    what the hell is all that sheet metal that looks like someone built it out of HVAC duct work?
    Looks like downpipe heat shielding to me.

    Leave a comment:


  • weaksauce
    replied
    nice.
    what the hell is all that sheet metal that looks like someone built it out of HVAC duct work?

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonsku
    replied
    Originally posted by E30SPDFRK View Post
    Now that we have a sane discussion going on in here, does anyone know how low an m60 pan is when mounted in an e30? I know you need to space the subframe so its probably pretty low.

    Edit: Better yet would be the measurements from the ground to the pan and the distance from the center of the wheels to the fender lip.
    The lower part is about even with the front subframe when there's about 3mm clearance between subframe and oilpan.

    You don't necessarily have to put spacers to the subframe, but then the engine-gearbox package will be quite tilted and covering plastics are very close to the hood.

    The oilpan is much "shorter" than in M30 or M50 anyways, here's a pic from my engine / subframe:



    As you see the oilpan doesn't stick out:

    Leave a comment:


  • E30SPDFRK
    replied
    Now that we have a sane discussion going on in here, does anyone know how low an m60 pan is when mounted in an e30? I know you need to space the subframe so its probably pretty low.

    Edit: Better yet would be the measurements from the ground to the pan and the distance from the center of the wheels to the fender lip.
    Last edited by E30SPDFRK; 01-19-2010, 09:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Iain
    replied
    Yeah E21 parts are hard to find out here 'cause nobody is keeping E21s on the road or salvaging parts any more. You used to see them all the time 10 years ago, now... :(

    I think a van booster under the dash with a Tilton master cylinder above the battery tray will work best for my application. I've butchered the heater box to rip out air con a lot of wiring I don't need, plus I'm moving the loom, fuses/relays and ECU to where the back seat/floor was to give me more space in the engine bay and more space under the dash. Also shifts a bit of weight :)

    Leave a comment:

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