E30 M3 S62 Build - Loads of queries about 4x4 drivtrains

[The Dark Side of Will]

And that's the M62 pump, of course... doesn't look like there's room for much else.

[Turk]

Good progress, pump is torqued down, just figuring out what cog I need to be using.

Mocked up the sump, Perfect fit!

[Turk]

if u have a picture showing the tooth quantity on the m60/62 crank Sprocket which drives the oil pump?

Would be much appreciated.

cheers

[PANZ3R]

Hey guys, was surfing the 'net and somehow wound up on this thread. Felt compelled to register and post, as I'm tearing through the 4.6iS (again).

Don't know if I can help, or not... or whatever, but give me a shout if you need a measurement, a picture, or something. I'll do the best I can to accommodate.

Cheers. Good luck.

- J

[Turk]

Dirty30 youre a star, I had been looking in completely the wrong section.

Many Thanks

[dirty30]

stole this off another forum, have a look at the nuts, they're the heightened double threaded type. Cannot find them on realoem to save my life!!!
Ignore the circles, intact look above them and you'll see the double ended shell cup/oil pump bolt.



the x5 sprocket is a fair bit smaller than the s62 on, but it looks probable that if i do keep the s62 chain and sprocket it will sit perfect (chain length wise)

what do we reckon?




i fitted the suction tube, hoping it would give me a good idea of the spacing i need to achieve,
sure enough:


still struggling to find those stupid double ended bolts though! :x

11111747403

[The Dark Side of Will]

I have not taken it apart.

I've been concentrating on building the exhaust for my Pontiac Fiero with Cadillac Northstar engine... To say that there's not much room to work is the understatement of the year.

The QC guy where my dad works finished up a CMM model of the M62/5HP24 bellhousing. I need to order the Corvette front plate, get it CMM'd and snag a copy of SolidWorks to design my adapter to bolt the two together.

[Turk]

Will, Have you got your m60/62 available for some measurements/quantities?

I need to know the rough diameter of the crank cog which drives the oil pump, and number of teeth too if possible.

I need to calculate the gearing differences between the m62 and s62.

Help appreciated:up:

[Turk]

Stole this off another forum, Have a look at the nuts, they're the heightened double threaded type. CAnnot find them on realoem to save my life!!!
Ignore the circles, intact look above them and you'll see the double ended shell cup/oil pump bolt.



The X5 Sprocket is a fair bit smaller than the s62 on, But it looks probable that if i do keep the s62 chain and sprocket it will sit perfect (chain length wise)

What do we reckon?




I fitted the suction tube, hoping it would give me a good idea of the spacing i need to achieve,
Sure enough:


Still struggling to find those stupid double ended bolts though! :x

[Turk]

In other news, I had the blocks drilled and tapped,
got some 3mm and 4mm sheet, and built the extra section into the chassis rails.
A couple of drain holes and sealer in and out and its ready for the subframe.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Sorry... I guess I'd said that on E30 tech but maybe not here.

Yes, moving the crossmember and rack together or moving the entire steering arm with the outer ball joint and tie rod end together will only change the point on the bump steer curve where the suspension operates.

Moving the rack relative to the crossmember or moving the tie rod ends relative to the ball joints will change the shape of the curve. "Change the shape" means "make it worse" because BMW did the best they could when they designed the car.

The only way to make a strut suspension free of bump steer is to put the tie rod and control arm in the same plane. In order to have realistic caster, doing this would require using wheels significantly larger than 14".

[Jonsku]

As I've said before, all that does is change the point on the stock bump steer curve at which the suspension operates.

If the rack is moved relative to the ball joints, the shape of the curve will change... and without knowing what the curve looks like beforehand, there's no way to know what it will look like afterward.

Ahh, you should've said that in the first place! ;) Or then I just didn't get it.


Anyway, isn't it so that also in this case the rack position will be changed "together with the subframe". Meaning, that the bump-steer curve will not change, after all..

[Turk]

I unfortunately don't have a car to measure required on. If someone can measure the lengths of the rods and draw a diagram in paint or such, I can then post the results of the bolting up.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Well, I've dropped the front subframe in my cabrio by 20mm, and on top of that lowered the car by ~80mm.

Instead of being scared of moving the rack around by couple of centimeters, lets just concentrate on the real problems such as "how to fit the engine" :)

As I've said before, all that does is change the point on the stock bump steer curve at which the suspension operates.

If the rack is moved relative to the ball joints, the shape of the curve will change... and without knowing what the curve looks like beforehand, there's no way to know what it will look like afterward.

BMW chose the stock rack position because it was the best position they could find to minimize bump steer over the full range of suspension motion. Anything you do with the rack is going to make bump steer worse.

You're looking only as the best case scenario and saying that the whole pie isn't so bad.

[The Dark Side of Will]

well, instead of endless debating - how would one measure the bump steer curve?

http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=how+to+measure+bump+steer