E30 M3 S62 Build - Loads of queries about 4x4 drivtrains

[Turk]

I found this about the 5HP24 tranny:

http://akpp-city.ru/pdf/5HP24.pdf

Shows the bell number as the following. i assume it has various options with slight differences.

1058 322 009
1058 322 011
1058 322 016
1058 322 020

[The Dark Side of Will]

I found this about the 5HP24 tranny:

http://akpp-city.ru/pdf/5HP24.pdf

Shows the bell number as the following. i assume it has various options with slight differences.

1058 322 009
1058 322 011
1058 322 016
1058 322 020

Cross reference the "Where used" column on pg 15 with the "ZF Part #" column on pg 2 in order to build your applications list.

[Turk]

so its 1058322011 I need.

[Turk]

£159 new... do I? don't I ?

[The Dark Side of Will]

They are kind of tough to find used, as their only parts value is when the transmission is dead and if the transmission is dead, they are usually scrapped with it.

[Turk]

Ordered. It should be here in around 10 days. The Above number has been superseded by 1058 322 016.

So should be receiving the getrag in a couple of weeks too. Can anyone tell me the distance between the edge of the bell (where it mates with the block) to the engine side of the splined shaft?

[Turk]

oh an as the auto housing doesn't have the mounting point for a slave cylinder with pushrod I think I will have to use one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1607183824...ht_1093wt_1071

There are many kits out there for hydraulic expansion bearings but are around £200. as far as I can tell the above does the exact same job at a fraction of the price. Another bonus could be the shaft diameter. Land rover/bmw etc used zf parts so I'm hoping the slave bearing will be a nice fit. If not I will make up a sleeve to snug things up.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Land Rover used BMW M62's for a few years... They never put a manual transmission with that engine, did they?

(Sorry if that's already been covered in this thread...)

Yes, you'll have to use a hydraulic throw-out bearing with the auto transmission bellhousing... if you can use an adapter plate.

You may have to cut/weld to get the 265 input shaft to reach the pilot bearing in the S62... the 265 bellhousing is shallower than the GM bellhousing, so there may not be enough space for an adapter plate between the auto bellhousing and the manual transmission. If you cut/weld and make one bellhousing out of two, then you will be able to keep the 265's throw out arm without having to use the hydraulic throw out bearing.

[Turk]

"Land Rover used BMW M62's for a few years... They never put a manual transmission with that engine, did they?"

Yes they did. I think it only had auto. Though I haven't been able to locate a bell housing from them. Thus I presume the auto tranny it used was 1 piece rather then the land rover r380 box.

Some measurements I could really use from u guy would be:
- the total height& width of the flywheel and clutch as a whole
- the depth of the spline penetration into the clutch plate
-The travel distance required in order to release the clutch.

Would a welded shaft hold up to the power of a v8? I'd rather have an extension made tbh.

[The Dark Side of Will]

You planning to use a stock-type clutch?

I have no way of getting that info about the stock clutch because I don't have one. I intend to use a Tilton dual disk unit.

When I said cut/weld above, I meant the bellhousing. That's far easier/safer than trying to do the input shaft. If you have access to machine tooling, it shouldn't be hard to cut both the V8 and 265 bellhousings off at the correct depth to weld the engine side of the V8 bellhousing to the transmission side of the 265 bellhousing. The ticklish part is making sure that the two patterns stay concentric

[Turk]

Yes the plan is to use a standard flywheel and clutch, obviously this may change. But seeing as I have a clutch at 2000 miles it seems silly not to try use it.

The plan is to to going the 2 bell housings. I had originally anticipated having a plate to mate the two, though welding would work too.
like this:

[Turk]

opinions on this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-Series2-LT230-Transfer-Box-1-211-ratio-18-month-warranty-/260948881991?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cc1c3f247#ht_500wt_1304

[The Dark Side of Will]

I know I've seen that picture before, but I looked around and couldn't find the thread.

That transmission is a Richmond 6 speed available in the US.

The T-case appears to be either semi-divorced or offset rear output... neither one will fit the e30 tunnel very well.
The stock E30 T-case is semi-divorced (meaning that it is bolted to the transmission but does not share internal volume) and you *may* have room for a semi-divorced T-case if you stick to a relatively compact transmission like the 265, but that T-case looks way too big.
Try to mate up an E34 T-case to the 265... Getting the electronic control working might be easier than you think... Its old enough that the box is unlikely to be tightly integrated to the rest of the car's computers.

[nando]

I think an E34 t-case would be relatively easy to control. All you really need is to calculate the % difference in wheel speed between the front and rear (probably an average of the 2 pairs of ABS sensors), and then output a PWM dutycycle to the transfercase to lock the coupling until the %slip falls below your threshold.

[Turk]

I think an E34 t-case would be relatively easy to control. All you really need is to calculate the % difference in wheel speed between the front and rear (probably an average of the 2 pairs of ABS sensors), and then output a PWM dutycycle to the transfercase to lock the coupling until the %slip falls below your threshold.

What is PWM duty cycle? I would have no idea where to begin tricking the electrics to make the tcase lock up. If anyone can tell me what needs to be done I have a bunch of electrical engineers at work who may be able to help.

On another note I have just bought an e34 gearbox with Tcase for pennies. I will be picking it up later this week. I will have plenty to chop up and hopefully the necessary to make things work.

The next step will be finding appropriate cv joints for the prop Tcase end and front diff end.

If I use an X5 front diff, will this already have limited slip or does that require electric-tronics too?