I know....its all 1 piece....I think thats why its $35.
But nobody in their right mind would pay that, I know
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#6 is just the plastic vacuum tube, not the valve. There is no part number listed for the valve on any e32/e34 V8's that use that booster. Hence my issue :)
I'm just going to find an e30 valve and see if that fits. I'm sure it will.
Good progress man!Leave a comment:
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Updates from yesterday
Finished the exhaust manifold downpipes. 2.5" - added O2 Bung holes. The welds aren't perfect, but they're mine, dammit!
Dry Installed the Expansion tank and modified engine acoustic cover. Look in the first picture how much I need to trim back from the cover...
Finished welding the selector rod, although I'm getting a DSSR from UUC anyway, but just in case.
Here is a picture of the tacked brake booster mount. I tapped the 2 M10 screws to make it easier to install later. More updates on brakes coming soon!
Marked some of the body modifications I must make once the engine is out of the car. I want to have AC, so I'm widening the frame rails slightly to make room for the compressor connections.
My E30.de Type 5 engine mount brackets
C101/X20 wiring ready to be soldered (thanks to JGood for the idea as opposed to making a C101/X20 adapter).
Justin, Here is the check valve you speak of. Unfortunately, I didn't find any at the local junkyard. I don't have the one from my E30 setup as I sold it a while back. Realoem shows it as part 6, P/N 34331161511. It shouldn't be too expensive.
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I sold it with the m20 that came with the car... kept the Value of the m20 up by not snipping wiresLeave a comment:
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Just as a thought... you may want to consider cutting off your c101 and splicing in a body side x20 plug. It eliminates one unnecessary failure point. For example, I spent 2 weeks troubleshooting a no-start condition after doing an m50 swap, one of the c101 pins was corroded enough that it wouldn't pass the required current, but it passed a multimeter continuity test. I said screw it, chopped it off, spliced in the x20, and connected the engine directly to that. Cleans up the engine bay a bit, too.Leave a comment:
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I should have the brake booster completely welded by the end of the week. Next is exhaust manifold downpipes!
Hitting up the Junkyard on saturday to get some more E34/E30 parts. Apparently, the junked C101 I got from the junkyard didn't have all the pins that my 325is utilizes. So I need some spare pins. That among other stuff of course!Leave a comment:
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Nice progress man! Looks like you've been devoting some serious time to this build, considering how far you've come so quickly. You'll definitely be on the road by Spring/Summer!
Hopefully I won't be too far behind :)Leave a comment:
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Shifter Update
Finished shifter mechanism tonight. WIth the help of the wife, I was able to locate neutral at a nice spot in the center console.
Neutral from above
2,4,6
1,3,5
Underneath shots
Whole Kit - I need to complete welding the shifter rod. Length of rod is now 114mm. I had the shift carrier welded by a local shop. I can't tig aluminum.
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nice man. I love seeing progress. I am getting more and more antsy to get my swap started.Leave a comment:
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Update
So I sent the driveshaft to the shop on Saturday to have the front half shortened and have the M60 front flange welded to it.
Shortening the shifter. It requires aluminum tig welding, so I had to send it to a shop as I don't have the resources. when I get it back, I'll post pics of the whole shortened shifter setup with dimensions. This is the only shot i could get. View from up top.
I updated the transmission bracket. Remember this is the 6 speed, so it's a lot longer.
I decided to drop the subframe and fit the exhaust manifolds in to check. Kept the engine in place by my jack. First I tried to fit them unmodified to the E39 M62 type. Didn't work at all. Then I started to trim it down little by little until it did fit.
I had to modify the passenger footwell to clear. I think that my engine sits further back than I originally thought because I'm doing a lot of "pushing back" of the firewall at various places.
As far as the header "dual wall", I simply welded both walls together once I had it cut to the proper length.
The 95 M3 Steering rack will work nicely with 2 E34 U joint setups connected by a straight bar. I'm eliminating the rubber bushing in the middle. No room for it. Unfortunately, it looks like there is interference between the oil pan and the top of the steering rack, so I'm going to have to make some room for that.
Also did some brake booster work tonight. I found it's final resting place and tacked the bracket in place. From here on out, brakes should be simple. I'll get more pics of that this weekend when I finalize the brakes.
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Most E30's have the small flange in the driveshaft, except some 325e:s, diesels and M3.
There've been examples of broken driveshafts with stock V8's when people have just welded bigger flange to the shaft.. So not the best thing to do.I guess there is value to the larger guibo, but unless you were drag racing, I bet it would be fine.
Has the same flange than E30 M3 / E36 M3 / E36 328..Possibly an E34 530 auto DS? front half from one?
6-speeders and ZF5HP30's have the largest flange that is not found "anywhere" else..Leave a comment:
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looking in from the outside
I'm surprised there is not an automatic E30 driveshaft that could be used if one got creative and went with a different output flange on the transmission....
I guess there is value to the larger guibo, but unless you were drag racing, I bet it would be fine.
Just a thought.
Possibly an E34 530 auto DS? front half from one?Leave a comment:
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