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HELP! Socal for m60/m62 hybrid engine runs like ****

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    #31
    your so close to me... i kinda want to check it out btw im doing the swap also

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      #32
      check vaccum with a vac gauge.

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        #33
        Originally posted by 328ijunkie View Post
        check vaccum with a vac gauge.
        Using port on back of intake? What am I looking for? (certain range or? )

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          #34
          Originally posted by robiniscool View Post
          your so close to me... i kinda want to check it out btw im doing the swap also
          Def. Ill send you a PM.

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            #35
            The ECU needs proper speed-signal, otherwise it'll mess the whole ignition up (but only on higher speeds of +100mph).

            If you have connected "some speed signal" to ECU, try cutting that wire out and check if it would work better. It's not required on lower speeds..
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            - Toyota Hiace 4wd -

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              #36
              Its not getting that far to try that. But the VSS is plugged in.

              Basically the car runs way better now that I retimed it. However, there is still a couple issues left (not sure if they are related at all).

              1. Cranks over a while before starting (will start quicker if i push the gas).
              2. Wont rev past 3k? That both in idle and underload. Just hits some sort of mechanical cut. Fuel pressure is ok during this time.
              3. Sometimes idles weird, sometimes doesnt.

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                #37
                Check to see if the engine is properly grounded?

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                  #38
                  A lot of those symptoms - the sputtering, long starts, ect - sound like bad compression... Have you done a compression test yet?

                  One other thing you can try is to create a small vac leak to simulate a lean condition - if it runs a little better, that's another vote in favor of low compression.

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                    #39
                    Where did the motor come from? Do you know its history? Did you crack it open to see the condition of the cylinder bores?

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by Corey@Track.One View Post
                      Where did the motor come from? Do you know its history? Did you crack it open to see the condition of the cylinder bores?

                      Heard the engine running in original car. Started up no issues. Didnt open it so see cylinder bores. Only changed gaskets on the intake side and ones needed for the conversion.


                      On a side note:

                      The dme seems to be getting really hot (I have two DMEs and both do the same thing). Im starting to lean towards something in the wiring but i dont know.

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                        #41
                        I was under the impression that the nonvanos M62 intake manifold was the same as the M60, is that not true? Also, what is the advantage of using the M60 dme vs. the M62?

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by bemmerguy714 View Post
                          The dme seems to be getting really hot (I have two DMEs and both do the same thing). Im starting to lean towards something in the wiring but i dont know.
                          The DME's do get really hot (that's why there's the temp-sensor and fan in the original DME-casing), so it's adviseable to organize some kind of fan / air exchange for them.


                          Originally posted by 325ix View Post
                          I was under the impression that the nonvanos M62 intake manifold was the same as the M60, is that not true?
                          non-vanos M62 intake manifold is the same as M60B30 intake manifold (gaps between runners), whereas M60B40 has "the large intake manifold".
                          - E34 M5 (x 2) -
                          - E30 V8 Cabrio "Kylpyamme" -
                          - Alpina D10 Touring #33/94 -

                          +
                          - E46 318i Touring -
                          - Toyota Hiace 4wd -

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