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    Engine stand mounting options

    Hi All,

    I am pulling the engine off of the hoist to gain more room in the garage. Other than crating and welding up a plate to mount it to the motor mount area, is there any issue with using the two threaded M10 as well as the two short M10 holes on the block?

    I need to take the pan off and I have a standard engine stand. I did search on the net, as well as Jeans thread and saw that this is how he mounted his, but I will have the heads still on mine.

    Thanks for any insight.

    #2
    The only 4 I could get lined up on my stand were the 2 M8 bolts at the top, and 2 of the bottom M10 bolts. It was on the stand like that as I unassembled and reassembled it, for almost 6 months, constantly moving it around, etc... I left the heads on mine as well. I know it was questionable, but it worked!

    So if you can get 4 m10 bolts lined up, I'd say you'll be perfectly fine.
    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
    e30 restoration and V8 swap
    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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      #3
      Just don't YANK on anything while it's on the stand if you are using the starter/tranny bolt/hole areas..... <crack>

      I priced the oem engine mounting "arm" that bmw has listed in their shop manual, and it was too expensive for what it is (over $300 iirc), it let's you mount the engine from one of the sides (passenger I think).
      Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



      OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

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        #4
        I used 3 bolts from Lowes.. worked for me

        stand was outside for a month with motor on it

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