Valley pan replacement using sealant

[Jean]

Yeah only one pan, it used to be pan + gasket, now it's pan with the seal attached.

Thanks for confirming that the regular gasket can be purchased, I am going to get that for mine.


Or, just weld the damn thing shut. hehehe.

[iamsam]

Yeah only one pan, it used to be pan + gasket, now it's pan with the seal attached.

Thanks for confirming that the regular gasket can be purchased, I am going to get that for mine.


Or, just weld the damn thing shut. hehehe.

does the pan serve as some sort of service port? Is there any benefit in it being removable? If not, why not weld it?

[Jean]

No service ports or access.... I think it was probably made as part of the design when the block was made?

[Jonsku]

Easier to cast the block when the pan is separate..


When looking via ETK, for M60 you can get the pan and gasket separately, but for M62 there is only the pan available with the gasket.

Both blocks are identical from the valley pan point of view, thus you can either buy the gasket (normal green gasket) or the pan + gasket.

I used new "green gasket" and the pan doesn't leak.. I've heard from many E39 V8 owners that their valley pans leak, so it even might be that the earlier "design" is slightly better .. ?

[dirty30]

I used new "green gasket" and the pan doesn't leak.. I've heard from many E39 V8 owners that their valley pans leak, so it even might be that the earlier "design" is slightly better .. ?

Yes the earlier gasket is waaaaay better and fits all the valley pans. It is made out of the same material as the rear crossover pipe gaskets, a kind of green paper with some sealant made into it.

[iamsam]

or you can weld that bish. Or maybe even JB aluminum weld...

[senorcarey]

As much as I'd love to TIG up the valley, it's not going to happen. I was feeling adventurous with the sealant, but with VP gaskets available and cheap, I figured I'd just order one. Steve at Blunttech had a good price (not affiliated) and that they were listed as a stocked item. I hope they are.

I also have a lower gasket set and timing rail on the way. If things go as planned, I'll have everything down low buttoned up next week.

This leaves me with the question: Is there anywhere on the bottom end that I should hit with RTV or similar to prevent leaks? If so, what's the goop of choice, I gave blue, grey, orange, black, and that awesome brown shellac from the old days. I know I need to put some where the head gasket hits the lower timing cover.

Also, I'm looking for some decent knock sensors, as well as the small coolant tube and the oil hose under the mani. Please PM me if you have some you'd like to part with. Thanks.

[rwh11385]

Yes the earlier gasket is waaaaay better and fits all the valley pans. It is made out of the same material as the rear crossover pipe gaskets, a kind of green paper with some sealant made into it.

If they work for all and don't fail, I might just go that route.

Any prep or anything besides placing it between? (any cleaning surfaces obviously)

[senorcarey]

I'll be sure to post pics when I get it.

[Jean]

Also, I'm looking for some decent knock sensors, as well as the small coolant tube and the oil hose under the mani. Please PM me if you have some you'd like to part with. Thanks.

I know the knock sensors aren't cheap new, but you really should get the oil seperator hose with the spring new...no sense in putting a used on in there under the manifold...

I think it was about $30

[JGood]

I know the knock sensors aren't cheap new, but you really should get the oil seperator hose with the spring new...no sense in putting a used on in there under the manifold...

I think it was about $30

Agreed, that is not the place to put used parts. You can get Bosch knock sensors autohausaz.com for $45/each (x4). It's not bad considering the PITA it is to remove them, and they will probably last for 15+ years.

[senorcarey]

10-4. Thanks guys, will do.