Need some quick help

[battlecattle]

Plugs are good.

How would I test the injectors without messing them up with a screwdriver? I know they are new but I would like to see if they are all firing (like you said).

No spare coils, I might be able to get my hands on some if it is still running like crap tomorrow.

[battlecattle]

Scratch that I am a retard, only 6 are firing!

Edit: 7 firing, I wasn't doing 1 right

[JGood]

Ehhh, what are you doing? I just meant do the ear trick... hold the screwdriver up against the side of the injector with the engine running, put the handle to your ear, and listen for the 'click', as it opens and closes. Like a tapping sound.

I bought 8 rebuilt injectors, and one of them wasn't firing when cold. That's the reason why I suggested it. I was using a stethoscope so it was easier, but you should be able to hear it with a screwdriver.

[battlecattle]

I was over thinking it at first.

That's exactly what I did, but with a ten inch extension. I am going to swap coils to the other side of the motor and see what happens.

[JGood]

I was over thinking it at first.

That's exactly what I did, but with a ten inch extension. I am going to swap coils to the other side of the motor and see what happens.

Check the resistance on the one that wasn't firing. Also check for voltage coming out of the injector harness connector. Or try swapping it with another injector and see if the problem follows the injector or stays on that cylinder.

Also check for voltage at the coil pack connector with the ignition on, and check resistance across the two outside terminals on the coil pack for the non-firing cylinder.

[battlecattle]

Check the resistance on the one that wasn't firing. Also check for voltage coming out of the injector harness connector. Or try swapping it with another injector and see if the problem follows the injector or stays on that cylinder.

Also check for voltage at the coil pack connector with the ignition on, and check resistance across the two outside terminals on the coil pack for the non-firing cylinder.

All of the injectors are at 15.4 Ohms, swapping coil packs didn't change anything but the coils are all .8 Ohms and getting 12v on the harness side. I guess I need to pull the injector and swap around...

[JGood]

Keep in mind, these resistance tests are a good starting point to try to find a fault, but don't prove that any of the parts are in good working order. My bad injector showed 15 ohms as well, for instance.

[battlecattle]

Keep in mind, these resistance tests are a good starting point to try to find a fault, but don't prove that any of the parts are in good working order. My bad injector showed 15 ohms as well, for instance.

Ok swapped injectors... and bam that 1 injector is bad!

"This will decimate all, after, you put about fifteen grand in it or more. If we have to, overnight parts from Japan." Does overnight parts from CT give me street cred?

[JGood]

Ok swapped injectors... and bam that 1 injector is bad!

"This will decimate all, after, you put about fifteen grand in it or more. If we have to, overnight parts from Japan." Does overnight parts from CT give me street cred?

What injectors are you running, and where are you getting it from?

May be able to avoid the overnighting fees by going through autozone/advance auto/pepboys. When one of my Bosch design III 19lb injectors went bad, Autozone had it for me same day for $40.


Oh, and, "Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried."

[battlecattle]

Merron Injectors, should be a replacement because the last one isn't working.

[battlecattle]

revival to help with a few things...

My HVAC and my radiator fan stopped working. Now everything works if you jump it from fuse to fuse. However, I cannot seem to find what the "signal" is to turn the HVAC or the radiator fan on.

What I do know. The radiator fan switch (High/Off/Low) currently does nothing. But it is wired into the radiator temp gauge (spliced into the 3 wires). I swapped the relays around and they all seem to be working correctly.