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How to make a custom steering shaft on the cheap!

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  • Stvstr
    replied
    I ground down the pinch bolt in the middle only, and have to slide the shafts together with bolt in place. I have maybe 1000 miles on my e46 shafts with no problems.

    Leave a comment:


  • badwella
    replied
    Resurrecting an old thread.

    How did you correct the issue with the clamping bolt from the e46 shafts? It protrudes into the splined section.


    Newer steering racks have a 'notch' cut out of them for this

    but the e30 steering shaft doesn't.

    Did you cut your shaft or did you do something to the bolt?
    Last edited by badwella; 04-07-2015, 01:23 PM.

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    I did this with a z4 steering shaft for z4 rack into i6 24v e30; shortened welded solid. Its held 30++ hours of wheel to wheel racing with contact and its been great.


    if one desires a cleaner non powered rack for a v8 it would also be a good choice.

    The z4 steering shaft is similar to e46 but its designed telescoping; has some ball bearings it rides on.

    The e46 shaft as op has shown is solid steel and seems much more work able.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • OldSkoolE3
    replied
    I did this. worked out awesome!

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  • 1991 e30 bmw 318is
    replied
    great idea but it looks to me that when its together the u-joints on each end are not at same angle as other end... (maybe just the little pics it hard to tell). maybe for this application its ok, but i know if you weld up a drive shaft like that it shakes very bad because of binding do to not being in sync. if this is binding do to not getting set up in sync it will probably have stiff spot in wheel and be hard on the joints... or maybe it tottaly fine in this application..

    Leave a comment:


  • Klasse
    replied
    Thank you to the OP for posting this writeup. I was about to purchase the flaming river gear until I saw this.
    One question though. You mentioned installing set screws to hold the centre section in position. Could you not use roll pins as an alternative? They would achieve the same outcome but not require tapping a thread.

    Leave a comment:


  • IronFreak
    replied
    Originally posted by tooslow View Post
    Hahahahaha funny shit right there

    Great thread, to the OP thanks for the ideas, exactly what I need for my swap!
    Save yourself some headaches and look on ebay for the steering shafts. I got 2 shipped to my house for under $50. beats digging them out of a junk yard!

    Leave a comment:


  • tooslow
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood View Post
    I hope my steering wheel smacks my face and knocks me out before my 3 foot long remote brake booster rod gets rammed into my nuts.
    Hahahahaha funny shit right there

    Great thread, to the OP thanks for the ideas, exactly what I need for my swap!

    Sent from my DROID2 using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    I hope my steering wheel smacks my face and knocks me out before my 3 foot long remote brake booster rod gets rammed into my nuts.

    Leave a comment:


  • slammin.e28
    replied
    Originally posted by _JohnnyD_ View Post
    I agree, modifying a car is all about risk vs reward equation.

    Risk, if I crash I get a steering wheel in my face.
    Reward, my steering column won't seperate if the exhaust manifold melts the flex plant. (racing or drifting)

    Solution, don't crash!

    Let's face it no one has added crash relief into the engine M60 engine mounts. If we crash head on there is a good chance that we may have a M60 engine in our lap. Risk vs Reward.
    M60 is lighter than an M5x so I'll take my chances!

    Leave a comment:


  • _JohnnyD_
    replied
    I'd be more afraid of the rag joint melting and crashing than being in a wreck and the steering wheel being impaled in my face.

    Basically one will happen eventually.
    I agree, modifying a car is all about risk vs reward equation.

    Risk, if I crash I get a steering wheel in my face.
    Reward, my steering column won't seperate if the exhaust manifold melts the flex plant. (racing or drifting)

    Solution, don't crash!

    Let's face it no one has added crash relief into the engine M60 engine mounts. If we crash head on there is a good chance that we may have a M60 engine in our lap. Risk vs Reward.

    Leave a comment:


  • slammin.e28
    replied
    I'd be more afraid of the rag joint melting and crashing than being in a wreck and the steering wheel being impaled in my face.

    Basically one will happen eventually.

    Leave a comment:


  • Jonsku
    replied
    The "compression" is realistically required only in airbag-E30's. E30 is so old and unsafe anyways (compared to today's standards), that having one-piece steering shaft does not make any great difference. If you wreck it, you'll be hurt anyways..

    One thing to consider is that in E30 V8 the exhaust manifolds are very close to the steering shaft. Thus, I would not put rubber-piece in there - it will melt and then you'll be in big trouble..


    "Solid steering shaft", which I also have in my cabrio, is a bit more "nervous" as it transfers all the small bumps to the steering wheel. The original rubber-version dampens them a bit.

    Leave a comment:


  • senorcarey
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
    There's no compression available in your new shaft... not as safe as stock in an accident.

    Is there a compressible telescoping section in the steering column?
    Are you saying that the stock flex joint provides the needed compression in an accident? Or do the stock shafts have a lot of compression?

    I've never had an E30 steering shaft apart, hence the question.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by Jason89i View Post
    i would highly reconsider welding the connection. there should a small amount of telescoping in the shaft. while very small, it is still needed. welding the shaft will fatigue or prematurely wear the joints. J
    Mind if I ask why? I'm no expert on universal joints, so I'm curious.

    I have a solid shaft as well, 2 Flaming River joints connected with a DD shaft. I have set screws locking it all in place, per FR's directions. But I only have 5k miles on that setup.

    Leave a comment:

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