College kid M60 E30 (ongoing build)
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I have to assume you haven't driven a car with a e36 rack? It's a world of difference! It's like a school buss to a go-kart.
love the swap BTW - thanks for all the pics - keep 'em coming.Leave a comment:
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I really didn't see the point in upgrading the rack since I'm not planning on tracking or even driving the car hard. Even if I purchased a new rack, I still would've had to make some custom shaft like other people here on r3v have.Nice job!
Don't take this the wrong way, but an e36 rack can be purchased for less than what you spent on the joint? I mean, e30 rack is one of the worst components on the car if you really like to drive the car... this part really lets itself known when you go through fast transitions and the rack is too slow to react to your input. Only put that out there as an example, as maybe yours is a going to be a daily driver...
250 on the joint to save $ on going with e36/z3 rack, just doesn't make sense to me.
The exhaust setup I got from a member on here actually had issues with his own custom E34 steering shaft and exhaust manifold touching so I wanted to avoid that by getting something that was bolt on and even thinner.Leave a comment:
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Nice job!
Don't take this the wrong way, but an e36 rack can be purchased for less than what you spent on the joint? I mean, e30 rack is one of the worst components on the car if you really like to drive the car... this part really lets itself known when you go through fast transitions and the rack is too slow to react to your input. Only put that out there as an example, as maybe yours is a going to be a daily driver...
250 on the joint to save $ on going with e36/z3 rack, just doesn't make sense to me.Leave a comment:
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Update: June 22nd
Installed my custom steering shaft and u-joint assembly. I used two Vorshlag 17mm-54-spline 3/4 u-joint's and a steel shaft from Jegs. Overall cost me around $250, but this setup is as low-profile as you can get without dumping money on an E36 M3 steering rack AND then making a custom shaft on top of that.
Also did a test bleed on the brakes to see how the pedals feel. Now I just need to relocate the reservoirs to their long term spot in the engine bay.

Last edited by MJCRO; 06-23-2013, 06:54 PM.Leave a comment:
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The color arrangement and pins on the M60B30 X20 are different, but yeah I have the right ones to be spliced into the C104 and green connector that goes to the tach.Leave a comment:
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Wow, this swap is looking great Marco!!! Keep us updated. Subscribed!Leave a comment:
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I am likely going to ignore pin 15 also, I have my wiring harness nearly done.
Edit: only pin 20 and 24 (x20) are to be spliced into c104. Pin 14 (x20) is to be spliced into green plug on the back of the cluster or brown/red wire off the yellow connector.Last edited by noid; 06-18-2013, 09:32 AM.Leave a comment:
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It should be fine with pin 15 ignored. I'm also deleting cruise control to free up some space under the dashboard and make wiring it a lot easier.I am excited to see what you will do for the absentee pins on the wiring harness (pins 8,9, 14, 15) since the 87 and prior do not have those pins.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=291234Last edited by MJCRO; 06-20-2013, 11:09 PM.Leave a comment:
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Update: June 18th
The wiring and brake lines are complete! Still need to run a line from the clutch pedal master cylinder to the transmission when the time comes.

Two of these are going to be spliced into the C104 connector and the third into the green connector that goes to the tach. (M60B30 X20)



My other Vorshlag U-Joint will be here this week so I'll have pics of my steering shaft setup soon.Last edited by MJCRO; 06-20-2013, 11:16 PM.Leave a comment:
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I am excited to see what you will do for the absentee pins on the wiring harness (pins 8,9, 14, 15) since the 87 and prior do not have those pins.
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