M60 swap. Starts but idles on redline

[Vtec?lol]

Just got the motor in. I deleted the ews and got a 404 ecu.
From my understanding all that was needed to be done was to cut the green no7 wire. I did that

I've got the fuel pump running but no spark.
-idle control valve not humming
-ecu not buzzing like it would if it were on
Starter engages and cranks it fine.

Any ideas?

[Vtec?lol]

Ok guyes. Got it running last week and it turned out to be a bad ground.
Now,
when I sart it I get a pow pow and ping in the exhaust as if the timing were off. When it does start, it rev's to damn near redline so I have to cut it off.

Any ideas?
I'm kinda dissapointed simply because I made sure the engine was running perfect before taking it out the 540i.

[iamsam]

I think the only way it can idle at redline is if the throttle is open significantly, which is mechanical, and easy to trace. Either that, or a serious vac leak, like you left the oil separator plate off the back of the intake manifold.

[Vtec?lol]

hanks for the reply. The throttle body is fully closed. the plate on the back is properly mounted. I'm probably going to smoke the intake to check for that.

I figured the same though and can't understand how it can get enough air to do that with the throttle closed

[iamsam]

crank case vent valve not hooked up? Could be sucking in air to the intake.

What all did you take apart on the engine after you removed it from the donor car?

[Jean]

Post on what you find...that is

[Vtec?lol]

crank case vent valve not hooked up? Could be sucking in air to the intake.

What all did you take apart on the engine after you removed it from the donor car?

Urmmmm. I took the intake off and the valve covers to paint and reseal. The brake booster hose is plugged. the OSV is ooked up properly with all new gaskets.
Only other vacuum source needing to be plugged was the carbon canister line and I plugged that as well. Very strange.

Post on what you find...that is

Whatever I find must be huge. lol

[iamsam]

this may be far-fetched, but if you could remove the throttle body and somehow push air into the intake manually (giant balloon??) you will be able to hear where the air is escaping.

Just brain storming here...


Also, have you tried plugging off the throttle body completely while running?

[Vtec?lol]

I figured smoke would work better since some valves are open to allow air to escape.
I just need to find a fogger

[JGood]

I figured smoke would work better since some valves are open to allow air to escape.
I just need to find a fogger

I made a thread in the General Technical forum on how to make a cheap smoke tester.

The ICV doesn't hum when your turn the key to 'On' (not 'Start')? I'd start with that... Check resistance across the coils and check continuity from the connector through the harness to the DME plug.

[Vtec?lol]

Thanks J. I'll start tonight.
The idle control valve now hums and buzzes but pretty loud. I'l take it off tonight and see if it's opening and closing as it should.

[JGood]

Thanks J. I'll start tonight.
The idle control valve now hums and buzzes but pretty loud. I'l take it off tonight and see if it's opening and closing as it should.

You also need to actually do a resistance check across the 2 coils. I think each outer pin should be 20 ohms to the center pin, and the outer pins should be 40 ohms to each other. But check the Bentley.

If the coils are off balance, it will still open/close, just not properly.

And check for voltage at the connector, etc...

[Vtec?lol]

You also need to actually do a resistance check across the 2 coils. I think each outer pin should be 20 ohms to the center pin, and the outer pins should be 40 ohms to each other. But check the Bentley.

If the coils are off balance, it will still open/close, just not properly.

And check for voltage at the connector, etc...

Thats great info. Just checked my multimeter and the it's dead. I'll need to pick up another multimeter and then check.

[Vtec?lol]

Couldn't get a hold of another multimeter

I've been messing with it and here are the new symptoms,

When I try to start it I get a back fire or a put like a mis timing.
Very hesitant to start.
When I did get it to crank over it sounds like a big block cammed motor with a bad idle or as if all cylinders aren't firing
Then it cuts out after 2 seconds.

I unplugged the cam sensor and no difference. It's as if it doesn't care if the cam sensor is there

I unplugged the icv no start

I unplugged the maf, more popping.

Tried switching the wires around between the tps and the tps for the asc system. No difference.

If my memory serves me correct, the greyish plug goes to the icv.

I'm getting pissed. Not sure what else to do.

I'm assuming its the 404 DME as I had none of these issues with the 484 factory ecu with ews

I'm lost and very saddened.

Anybody have a spare ecu?

[JGood]

Before throwing parts at it, get a multimeter.

Check resistance on the crank sensor.

You're right, unplugging the cam sensor will make no difference. On m60's, it just goes into wasted spark mode.

Yes, grey plug is for the ICV.

The plug with the bitch clip is for the ASC. The plug with the spring clip is for the TPS.

I'd start testing things before throwing parts at it.