Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

m60 auto/manual harness compatibility

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    m60 auto/manual harness compatibility

    Is anyone using an auto harness for a manual m60 swap car? Is it necessary to remove all of the automatic wiring, and if so, is it fairly straightforward as in just removing some extra wires, or is there cutting and splicing to patch things back together? Is it possible just to leave it as is, and just not plug in the auto computer?

    I cannot find a manual harness for sale. The only one I've seen for the past month is on ebay for $300. Way too much!
    85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
    e30 restoration and V8 swap
    24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

    #2
    There is one on eBay for 300 but it's not even from a 540i/6spd ... it's from a 530, and those aren't exactly the same right?

    "This listing is for a used engine wiring harness removed from a '95 (9/'94 manufacture date) BMW 530i with a 5-speed manual transmission"
    Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



    OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Jean View Post
      There is one on eBay for 300 but it's not even from a 540i/6spd ... it's from a 530, and those aren't exactly the same right?

      "This listing is for a used engine wiring harness removed from a '95 (9/'94 manufacture date) BMW 530i with a 5-speed manual transmission"
      Yeah, that's the one I was talking about. There's a few differences, I think an extra relay and fuse near the DME. Garey and Ryan used 530i harnesses. The main thing is just making sure you have the correct knock sensors, they changed connectors (2 pin vs 3 pin) in late 93 for both the 530i and 540i.


      Anyway, I just need to know if I can use an auto harness, and what, if anything, needs modified.
      85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
      e30 restoration and V8 swap
      24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

      Comment


        #4
        I picked up an auto harness yesterday and installed it today, as-is. Not cutting or removing anything. The car fired right up and ran 100% identical to how it was with the manual harness.

        I don't see what the big deal is. If the extra connectors bother you, just cut them off.



        Unfortunately, the harness didn't fix my hesitation/backfire/stalling issues. When getting on the gas after coasting in gear, I get a stumbling/hesitation, and a crackling backfire, then it just suddenly wakes up and goes. Also, it tries to stall if I let it engine brake below 1500 RPM's.

        I've replaced all of the following, some of them 3-4 times. Everything has also been tested per Bentley.

        DME
        Harness
        Ground straps
        Battery
        ICV
        Crank sensor
        Cam sensor
        Intake temp sensor
        Coolant temp sensor
        MAF
        TPS
        Throttle body
        Fuel pump
        Fuel filter
        Injectors
        FPR
        Plugs
        Coils/boots
        Knock sensors
        o2 sensors
        All intake gaskets/seals

        There's probably more that I'm forgetting. I literally replaced everything engine-related.

        Engine has been compression tested, leakdown tested, vacuum tested, smoke tested. Fuel pressure has been checked. There are no fault codes. I hooked up a Snap-On Ethos scanner and drove around, every sensor was reading within spec.

        I quit!
        85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
        e30 restoration and V8 swap
        24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

        Comment


          #5
          I haven't had a chance to say this yet but you have a spectacular car! Love it! One of my favorite ones on here!
          But damn! This sucks! I'm sorry I'm no help.. But I've just got the m20 n tryin to figure out why it stumbles... I can't imagine how big of a headache this is!
          Best of luck man.
          Makes me think twice about a m60 swap:(
          sigpic


          1989 BMW 325is (SOLD)
          1990 BMW 325i Brilliantrot (SOLD)
          1992 BMW 325IC (SOLD)
          1991 BMW 318IS (STOLEN!)

          2017 BMW M2 (WEEKEND WARRIOR)
          (GRIGIO TELESTO RESPRAY, FULL BOLT ONS, TUNE-HPFP AND TURBO UPGRADE COMING AFTER WARRANTY IS DONE)
          1989 BMW 325IC (PROJECT(
          2002 FORD ESCAPE (DAILY)
          2001 BMW 330CI (FOR SALE SOON)



          "R3v, being a bunch of cheap bastards that would try to negotiate a discount on a free engine,"

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by JGood View Post
            I picked up an auto harness yesterday and installed it today, as-is. Not cutting or removing anything. The car fired right up and ran 100% identical to how it was with the manual harness.

            I don't see what the big deal is. If the extra connectors bother you, just cut them off.



            Unfortunately, the harness didn't fix my hesitation/backfire/stalling issues. When getting on the gas after coasting in gear, I get a stumbling/hesitation, and a crackling backfire, then it just suddenly wakes up and goes. Also, it tries to stall if I let it engine brake below 1500 RPM's.

            I've replaced all of the following, some of them 3-4 times. Everything has also been tested per Bentley.

            DME
            Harness
            Ground straps
            Battery
            ICV
            Crank sensor
            Cam sensor
            Intake temp sensor
            Coolant temp sensor
            MAF
            TPS
            Throttle body
            Fuel pump
            Fuel filter
            Injectors
            FPR
            Plugs
            Coils/boots
            Knock sensors
            o2 sensors
            All intake gaskets/seals

            There's probably more that I'm forgetting. I literally replaced everything engine-related.

            Engine has been compression tested, leakdown tested, vacuum tested, smoke tested. Fuel pressure has been checked. There are no fault codes. I hooked up a Snap-On Ethos scanner and drove around, every sensor was reading within spec.

            I quit!
            I had a friend of a friend come by (26years of bmw master tech experience, was trained on these engines as well when they were new) and look at what I am doing with my swap, and he told me about an issue where knock sensors that weren't torqued to spec and also a faulty water pump bearing was causing the engine to retard itself too much and was lacking power.

            Not sure if yours are all torqued to spec, but something to think about since you've covered all the "external" components.....

            Sucks dude!
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Jean View Post
              I had a friend of a friend come by (26years of bmw master tech experience, was trained on these engines as well when they were new) and look at what I am doing with my swap, and he told me about an issue where knock sensors that weren't torqued to spec and also a faulty water pump bearing was causing the engine to retard itself too much and was lacking power.

              Not sure if yours are all torqued to spec, but something to think about since you've covered all the "external" components.....

              Sucks dude!
              I've read a bit about the knock sensors and people claiming they need torqued to spec. I didn't do that, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to try. I just really find that hard to believe!

              As for the water pump... You mean it was making a noise that the knock sensors were picking up, or it was causing that much drag on the engine?


              The thing is, mine runs 100% under full throttle. Even part throttle, smooth as butter. It's only that first second when getting on the gas after coasting in gear (engine braking). And it's not every time. It only does it when it's fully warmed up was well.
              85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
              e30 restoration and V8 swap
              24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

              Comment


                #8
                Correct, from what I understood knock sensors were picking up noise from the water pump. I too find it hard to believe, but the guy knows his stuff so.... Having to torque the knock sensors does make sense if you really think about it ....

                Your problem is really nuts!
                Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                Comment

                Working...
                X