From Boost to Reliable. M62b44 Swap!
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The M20 is visibly angled...
The tape measure tells the story, but no one ever measures where the front end of the M20 crank is before they pull the old engine out...
I'm going to assume your exaggerating, as dropping the mounts 3/4" won't move the pulleys 3"...Leave a comment:
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When the front of the engine sits up 3 inches higher than the rear. I assure you the alignment is off. I will dig up the before pictures. The after pictures are nice and flat.Leave a comment:
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I was really wondering if you'd actually MEASURED the before and after driveline alignment.
It's become "community knowledge" that it ought to be done, but I've NEVER seen measurements verifying that it is in-fact misaligned and by how much.Leave a comment:
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That and the problem with lowering your subframe. Which lowers the ball joints on the control arm. You can imagine that the steering geometry will change significantly. Some will argue, sure. But the whole idea of it doesnt sit well with me.
The whole rule of "different strokes for different folks" Ill never condemn what they are doing to THEIR vehiclesLeave a comment:
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Is the intent with this pan mod to "align the driveline"?Leave a comment:
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I agree robert, however. For a guy that doesnt have the abilities in their shop, it makes sense to space the subframe. Im aiming to change that. I will be making motor mounts next. As well as all of the other needed m60/62 swap goodies. Including the option to mail me their pan. Just gotta get everything finished,organized, priced and posted up in a thread.Leave a comment:
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That pan modification is so much better than the current motor mount setup people have been using for M60 swaps.
I wished this would work with the S62 but the active sump setup will not allow it.Leave a comment:
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It was welded with a SquareWave Lincoln 175. Set at 120 with variable pedal. I use 100% argon with 2% thoriated Tungsten(100% tungsten works too). Rounded end of tungsten with copper. MIG aluminum is not a acceptable process for this job. Its more for boats and pontoons. Ive got a Spoolmate with aluminum but TIG wins on most of my projects.
Sticks, I can offer just the pieces you see in the first few pics, or a welded up one you see im comparing to the piece i cut out.Leave a comment:
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Thanks JGood, Your thread is a great inspiration to this project. Awesome job on that car dude.Leave a comment:
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It was welded with a SquareWave Lincoln 175. Set at 120 with variable pedal. I use 100% argon with 2% thoriated Tungsten(100% tungsten works too). Rounded end of tungsten with copper. MIG aluminum is not a acceptable process for this job. Its more for boats and pontoons. Ive got a Spoolmate with aluminum but TIG wins on most of my projects.
Sticks, I can offer just the pieces you see in the first few pics, or a welded up one you see im comparing to the piece i cut out.Leave a comment:
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If you were to make a kit for the pan cut out, I'd be all the way down for that!
@mattdk318iLeave a comment:
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As mentioned nice work on the pan !
Care to share:D how you welded it mig/tig? machine settings & materials amps ? alu alloy 6013 ?
I've cleaned re cleaned stainless brush etc both mig/tig are showing lots of porosity and contamination from base metal I seem to be missing the right combo TIALeave a comment:
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