*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[jalopi]

btw, not sure exactly what it is, but i finally saw an explorer accessory setup last week when i was checking out this dude's 302 e36 - it seems you gain about 1.5-2" of clearance by doing so. reading about it on the internet really doesn't do it justice... it's a rediculous difference. might be looking into, considering what you're planning

then again, you might already have an exploder accessory setup, my memory is shit

[jalopi]

[e30_302]

And the adventure begins.

[e30_302]

Go for it, can't hurt anything. You don't have much room back there. You'll probably want to create a little channel for the oil to flow down into.

[tokoloshe]

This is something I thought of but haven't research weather it was a good idea or not....what about welding 1/2" Swagelok fittings in the front and rear of the pan and adding a removable drain /equalizing line from the front to the rear of the pan. It could be placed above the normal full level on the front sump to allow oil to return easier from the rear of the pan. The Swagelok fittings could allow the tubing to be routed under the rack and still keep the pan serviceable.

[jalopi]

i'm assuming it's solid metal there? no coolant passages to accidentally drill into? i guess the worst that'd happen from doing that is you could just thread & plug it

[e30_302]

Drill right above the rear drain port and put in probably a -8 line, run it down and front to the sump.

[jalopi]

wow that was pretty pointless, somehow forgot to throw "e36 solves these problems" in there.... lol

so have you figured out how you're running the drains from the head yet? i've seen a few setups so far, but they all seem to be on chevys. they've actually got open space at the back of the heads to drill a hole for the drain, but our heads don't have that same amount of good space.

so what's the plan? drain it from the valvecover?

[e30_302]

My non-scientific analysis of a lap around VIR shows about 60% of the time oil's moving rearward, 40% forward. That's not terrible, but on the wrong side of keeping the oil tank full I would think if I only scavenged from the front. More research.

[e30_302]

Absolutely front sump's are terrible for road racing, but I'd question the 80% rearward acceleration. Not in this part of the country at least, too much elevation change. Maybe I can come up with a way to scavenge from the rear, but it'd be a tight fit.

I know for sure I'm running drain lines from the heads to the front of the pan, that'll help some.

[jalopi]

can you get a three scavenge pump? you could shorten the current pan, put two in the front and one in the back.

now, i'm no engineer, and i am hammered, so i might be talking out of my ass with this... but IMO front sumps are pretty fail for road racing. reason being that most courses are either full throttle or partial throttle 80% of the time, decel or braking 20% of the time. basically, 80% of the time oil is being forced towards the back of the car via gravity, 20% of the time it's being forced forward. obviously you can see the issue with a front sump in this situation. /endrant

if you can't get a third scavenge, maybe you can run an "equalizer" pipe from the back of the pan to the front of the pan? like, it'd run outside the pan. any oil collecting in the back half of the pan that doesn't go forward due to the forces of acceleration would be forced through the tube and into the front of the pan because of those very forces. obviously you'd have to have enough oil to completely fill up the tube before it'd work, but i think it's got potential to work... maybe

[e30_302]

i just couldn't ever figure out the logistics behind it. don't know if you've got custom mounts, a weeny radiator or both but i don't think i had enough room for the extended gilmer pulley setup.

pans are gonna be another issue, as i think the shortest pan i could find is something like 5" deep. i'll remeasure later since my engine is on a stand, but i'm pretty sure the e30302 pans are something like 3.5-4" deep to clear the subframe

all the more power to you if you can make it work, though there's gonna be some major hurdles to get through

Valid points for sure. For the radiator spacing, I've cut out all the factory supports and mounts; I can move it forward, that's not a problem. I imagine I'll mount the pump passenger side and turn that header rearwards. The pan isn't bothering me so much now, but I need to research the design theory on them more. I only have two scavenge stages to work with, I initially thought shorten the front sump a few inches and put them both there.

[jalopi]

i just couldn't ever figure out the logistics behind it. don't know if you've got custom mounts, a weeny radiator or both but i don't think i had enough room for the extended gilmer pulley setup.

pans are gonna be another issue, as i think the shortest pan i could find is something like 5" deep. i'll remeasure later since my engine is on a stand, but i'm pretty sure the e30302 pans are something like 3.5-4" deep to clear the subframe

all the more power to you if you can make it work, though there's gonna be some major hurdles to get through

[e30_302]

After a great day on ebay, it looks like a dry-sump system is do-able after all...

[jalopi]

goddamnit, every time you post in one of my threads you make my head hurt... either read and remember or forever leave my threads alone. jumping to conclusions and attacking other members only makes you look like a dick. you're not part of the multi-forum conversation i've got going on, otherwise you'd know i was referencing the swap into my e36 project. they can use the factory mustang style pans, including baffled road race pans without modification, which i believe i've mentioned before.

regardless of knowing about the different swap though, the general knowledge is still the same - you can add the craziest baffle system & an accusump to an LS and still have oil starvation issues; most ford guys do just fine with the stock pan. apples to apples, the old school SBF takes the lead in oiling every time. so yeah, why spend the extra money on an LS when i'd have to take drastic measures to keep oil pressure at acceptable levels? or did you just come in to bust my balls like always?

regardless... just saying... posts should make sense