*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[jalopi]

Yeah dude unfortunately this thread is a fucking mess, haven't had much time to reorganize & consolidate all the information in a while... there's a lot to be done.

[Lebstanka]

im so glad this forum exists lol

[jalopi]

+1 on the diff flange from jagsthatrun, very quality piece. had one made from scratch from a driveshaft shop, it was something like $300.

With the correct pedal ratio, the brakes you're gonna be running (almost the same braking torque as my setup) and a 3/4" master it's really hard to tell that the car has unboosted brakes. Then again, it doesn't feel like it's got 13" rotors either, they feel stock :D / :(

Still work great though. If I had to do it all over again I'd get the garagistic pedal mount, that way you can mount the clutch pedal in a non-ghetto way. The massive booster delete is a good product but for our applications it's not ideal compared to the pedal box setup from garagistic (because of the clutch issue). It's about $100 more for the pedal box (total when said and done) but totally worth it.

You're gonna want 235's in the rear if you've got decent heads & a cam, anything under and the ass end will come loose all the time.

Also, use this for the trans slave:

http://dazecars.com/dazed/test.html#3

Push slave is the way to go. All the pull slaves out there (the kind e30v8 recommends) use o-rings for the pistons... I've had a few failures with this kind of slave. I'm no engineer so I can't say this is correct info, but everything I've read says that o-rings are pretty shit for dynamic applications. In any case, you'll have to hammer the trans tunnel a little bit to get that one to fit, but I'm sure you'll figure it out just fine.

[e30_302]

Personally I'm using an aluminum shaft from a cop crown vic, cut to fit. Diff flange comes from jagsthatrun.com.

I've used a 4.10 & 2.93 diff. The 4.10 was way too short. The 2.93 suits me very well (road racing).

[Lebstanka]

What did you end up doing for the driveshaft Jalopi? Since the v8 guide wasn't to you're liking. Also what diffs have y'all played with?

[e30_302]

Tell ya anything I can: stock pedal with the pivot changed (all part of the booster delete kit, not hard). Wheels are 15" Honda's with 205/50/15 Dunlop Star Specs. Front brake pads are Raybestos ST-43 rears are Carbotech XP10.

[Lebstanka]

Get this http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-s...booster-delete and a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder. You'll need a die grinder or dremel to slightly open up the mounting holes on the MC. I run the same brakes.

Can I be nosy and ask what your pedal setup is ? Also wheel + tire combo ?

[e30_302]

Get this http://www.massivebrakes.com/brake-s...booster-delete and a Wilwood 3/4" master cylinder. You'll need a die grinder or dremel to slightly open up the mounting holes on the MC. I run the same brakes.

[Lebstanka]

hey everyone, I'm going to try and enter the conversation without any forum elitist slapping me for any noob mistakes,

I'm currently on the e30 +302 build, heres some problems i am currently encountering-
I ordered the wilwood bbk from IE, comes with 2 piece rotor and slim 3 pot caliper. I was planning on going with manual brakes but theres no way these massive brakes could be modulated by foot power alone. can anyone refer me to the answer of what pedal setup, master cylinder, or remote booster setup they have seen used or thought up before?

i was reffered to this but i think its for all booster-less applications http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=290421

and ya i cut the heater lines, thanks e30v8

[e30_302]

Yeah, it's the pump. Little tiny mr gasket thing I got at advance. Does pretty good for what it is, really.

[jalopi]

Huh. Did you try setting the float level higher?

[e30_302]

I think it's just a lack of capacity. Car screams until the bowls start to run low on fuel. I never even noticed it until I got it on the track.

[jalopi]

did you have a lot of problems with vapor lock or something?

[e30_302]

That's what I'm going to do (where my pump is now) except I'm going to use a Holley Black. I wish I had just kept all the stock stuff and used a regulator, but we pulled all that out early on when I had just a mechanical pump on the engine. That ended up not working because the exhaust was too close.

[eurotrash]

I made a braket and just mounted a holley blue in the stock external spot.