318is M60 swap

[jalopi]

I think I smell a turbo in his future ;)

*edit* goddamnit, missed that post by a minute

[LoneWolf]

You'd be taking the worst parts of both engines and combining them. You should be looking at doing the opposite, if anything. Reducing the discplacement by .4 so that you might drop compression a little is counter productive.

Why not just get thicker head gaskets? And why do you want lower compression to begin with?

Huh, thought I remember reading that the m60 heads flow only a little better, and that the m60 just has more aggressive cams? The hang up is the single row chain on the m62 heads right? Guys have frankensteined the m60 heads onto their m60, just wondering if its possible to reverse it.

I haven't been able to find a thicker head gasket, well I did but only for cylinders 5-8. Do you know where I can find the set?

Plus the head gasket will only drop compression to around 9.8 to 1.

Would like to lower the compression for boost.....

[JGood]

Um looking to lower the compression some maybe. Not sure if the heads would do it. Or by how much they would.

You'd be taking the worst parts of both engines and combining them. You should be looking at doing the opposite, if anything. Reducing the discplacement by .4 so that you might drop compression a little is counter productive.

Why not just get thicker head gaskets? And why do you want lower compression to begin with?

[LoneWolf]

Curious as to why you want to bolt the M62 heads onto the M60? Most people do it the other way around.

Um looking to lower the compression some maybe. Not sure if the heads would do it. Or by how much they would.

[P Arkus]

Curious as to why you want to bolt the M62 heads onto the M60? Most people do it the other way around.

[LoneWolf]

It's snowing a ton. Should have some time to get that off the transmission, or at least go at it again.

Anyone with specs on the m62 heads? Would they bolt straight to the m60, would swapping the cams and gears be a straight swap?

[jalopi]

Hm. Got an air hammer? I would use the fourth bit from the left - you can put an extension over the tip of that bit for an effective lengthening (the alternative is to have a 1.5" version of the bit. very nice, takes the slop out)



As long as you're good with modulating the trigger on air hammers, you shouldn't hurt anything, just go light. The key here is consistent multiple hits, not necessarily powerful ones.

[LoneWolf]

Do you have a pulley/gear puller? Not sure what the distance between the bolt holes in that flywheel are though. Autozone rents tools out for free, see if they've got a puller that'll work/is big enough.

Couldn't find one big enough, that was my first idea.

[jalopi]

Do you have a pulley/gear puller? Not sure what the distance between the bolt holes in that flywheel are though. Autozone rents tools out for free, see if they've got a puller that'll work/is big enough.

[JGood]

Just hit the fork. It's $20. You're cocking the whole assembly at an angle by hitting the PP, possibly even damaging the splines. That fork is designed solely to transfer force in the same way you'd be hitting it.

[Vtec?lol]

If you're not re-using the assembly (I wouldn't) then push the whole thing back down the spline towards the trans/fork and lube the spline with penetrating oil and used motor oil.

Then follow J-Goods instructions. That whole thing should slide off by hand or by sitting the trans on the mounting face and letting gravity to the work.

[LoneWolf]

How are you putting the extension on the PP? If you go straight in the hole, you should be on the fork, which will push on the throw out bearing, putting equal load on the center of the pressure plate. That's what it's designed to do.

At an angle, very awkward one, probably why I am not getting much force. I hit on the fork a few times but worried it may bend.

Hoping I get snowed in tomorrow so I can mess with it some more.

[JGood]

How are you putting the extension on the PP? If you go straight in the hole, you should be on the fork, which will push on the throw out bearing, putting equal load on the center of the pressure plate. That's what it's designed to do.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Tap it, turn 180, tap again, etc. You may be able to walk it off the shaft that way.

[LoneWolf]

Are you going to reuse any of those parts? I don't know how hard you're hammering. I guess you could damage the PP if you're swinging a 10lb sledge into it. The clutch disc needs to slide friction-free across the splines in order to 1) install the trans, and 2) have a functioning clutch. So even if you don't damage the PP, you may be replacing the clutch kit, or at least the disc, anyway. I'd be replacing it regardless, but I understand if you're on a budget.

Maybe the fork can only pivot forward so far. Once you have the clutch pushed to the end of the splines, can you grab it and pull?

There is something on the splines stopping it. The disc and splines are the only part of the entire assembly making contact. It wouldn't take much, just a slight burr. Maybe when the flywheel grenaded it sent some debris into the splines.

Ah ok, I will take a closer look the splines.

I am only using a 2lbs hammer and a long 1/2" extension. Putting the extension on the pressure plate and giving it a whack.

Not planning on re-using the pressure plate and flywheel. I want to get a heavier duty clutch anyhow, keeping my eye out for a lightweight flywheel since I only have half of a stock one.