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M60b44 rebuild and slow project

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    #16
    Originally posted by JGood View Post
    So a scotch bright pad and oil is safe to use on these cylinder walls? Then just drop in the pistons with new rings, gapped properly? I didn't know it was possible to put in new rings without a freshly cut bore with that silicon honing process that is way over my head haha.
    Originally posted by robiniscool View Post
    usually i just deglaze the clyinder walls then put them in but deglazing is not good for these ausil engines but make sure you oil it during install and just crank it a couple of times so the new rings can cut into the walls
    "Deglazing" on an iron block is completely different than the acid etch process used on an alusil block. Have you found/read success stories of people doing it this way?

    My take is that if there's no bore ridge (and there never is on an EFI engine), and the original cross-hatch is still visible (most often the case on BMW engines) then the bores don't need any work... just cleaning.

    I've never seen a build thread in which BMW engine that was still running when disassembled did not have good cross-hatching on the bores.

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      #17
      So life happened and i had to put the project on hold but after a LONG while i decided to pick it up agian.

      Here are some pictures a e30 that i picked up for a whopping 600$ on CL for the v8 that im going to put in ;D






      I also started working on the motor also so some updates on that

      I tapped the hole that was used to lubricate the U shaped for the m62 and sealed it with a hex shaped nut with RED thread locker, i hope it works.




      After that was all done i also started to do my timing after i got all new guides and a new crankshaft sprocket from the e34..... $$$$ and also got the engine almost finished up, it should be all together this week once the remaining parts come in the mail :pimp:

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        #18
        today was somewhat a productive day.

        I started to make a bracket for my oil filter housing in a way so i could eventually add a oil cooler in the future.



        This is the Oem bracket PN 11421745152 if you want to use the rubber bushings for the oil filter housing



        and the m62 oil filter housing and this will go where the cruise control used to be at


        I got lucky since i have both obd I and Obd II that i get to use just buy the $15 gasket PN 11141736175 for the valley pan since it has a flat surface


        also thread locked all the bolts on the oil pump since of the horror stories of finding bolts in your oil pan and also welded the but on the oil pump



        this is where i cut to keep the a/c bracket and oil inlet/outlet on the block



        and finally today i dropped the motor in the engine bay so i can start shaving off what i don't need and making brackets for things i do

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          #19
          I sure hope you're going to tear that engine back down to clean everything prior to final assembly...

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            #20
            Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
            I sure hope you're going to tear that engine back down to clean everything prior to final assembly...
            Lol the internals are cleaned before I sealed, it's actually pretty clean but I took the pictures with bad lighting :(

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              #21
              I'm just looking at open oil ports pointing up and going into the car with the cam covers off, where FOD could go down an oil drain back passage and end up in the sump.

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