m60 - Correct drivetrain angle without subframe spacers

[The Dark Side of Will]

It's to align the entire drivetrain. The trans is already properly aligned, it's the engine that is too high (hence the use of subframe spacers). If you were to just lift the trans higher, to level out the engine/trans assembly, your u-joint angles will still be off, and you'll probably be putting stress on the guibo. I'm not an expert on that, but I can't imagine that would be ideal.

Besides, with the 6 speed trans, there is no room to go upwards. Mine is about 2mm from the body in like 5 different spots.

Is there any source anywhere that actually shows the measurements for verifying driveline alignment?

[JGood]

Is there any source anywhere that actually shows the measurements for verifying driveline alignment?

Nope. I don't know of any way to easily and accurately do it, so I'm just taking the 'common info' as truth.

I put 15k miles on my m60 e30 with that alignment. When I removed it all, my u-joints, CSB, and guibo all looked exactly as they did when I installed them. That's good enough for me.

[The Dark Side of Will]

I've heard it the other way too... people put lots of miles on cars without spacers.

This is from the AWD forum, but should be the same as the RWD numbers:

Bad pics but i measured this way the M20 had theese measurments. (and this is how i mounted the M50 too)

34,3cm


9,9cm

[JGood]

Getting the front of the engine aligned is the easier half of the battle. Does he have trans output shaft measurements as well?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Using stock transmission (in this case transfer case) mounts, AFAIK.

If using a ZF 310 trans with the M60, using the stock mounts would take care of the position of the transmission end... I @$$ume that the relationship of the output shaft to the trans mounts is the same between the G260 and the ZF310...

[JGood]

That's true. I'll measure my 420g and zf 320 and see if the mounting point to output shaft measurements are the same.

[_JohnnyD_]

Is there any source anywhere that actually shows the measurements for verifying driveline alignment?

Professional race shops will bring in companies with laser or point source 3D measurement devices to measure the drive line and suspension pick up points.

I use these companies at my work quite a bit. They run about $1000/hr (including set up time) but in 1 hour you can get a lot of points measured. If you need surface profiles measured, that takes time and real money.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Unecessary when the needed information can be obtained with a tape measure and a yardstick.
I was wondering how "conventional wisdom" is derived. I've never seen a set of measurements showing that the crank snout of the V8 ends up higher than the crank snout of the M20.

I've worked with optical alignment tools on paper machines and laser trackers to align deployable antenna systems on satellites... I am familiar with high end metrology.

[Zacm829]

Did you have a chance to get those in car pictures of the pan clearances Justin?

[JGood]

Did you have a chance to get those in car pictures of the pan clearances Justin?

Not yet, been pretty busy.

[JGood]

Here's the pictures. Ignore the JB Weld, it's my weapon in the endless battle of plugging all of the leaks in the pan. For every hole I patch, another pops up. Soon the whole pan will be covered...

[The Dark Side of Will]

Pull it, bead blast it and spray it down with epoxy primer...

[JGood]

Think that will work?

I'm going to try to find another pan and try again, this time mig weld it myself.

[The Dark Side of Will]

Yes, epoxy is non-porous. I've used this product quite a bit for engine compartment items. It goes on well and makes a hard, non-porous surface. It would seal especially well if you spray the INSIDE of the pan, but you have to be VERY careful with surface preparation to make sure it sticks.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7633t4/=s38p3l

How was your current pan done?

A *GOOD* TIG welder should be able to make that a work of art.

[JGood]

Sweet, I'll look into that.

It was stick welded. My buddy did it, he has a tig as well but chose not to use it. He's not a professional welder, but I trust him for stuff like this. He had a lot of trouble with cracking when it was cooling... Regardless of how much it was pre-heated and slow-cooled. In the end, bolting it to the block whole welding helped a lot.