m60 - Correct drivetrain angle without subframe spacers

[36brua]

Yes, epoxy is non-porous. I've used this product quite a bit for engine compartment items. It goes on well and makes a hard, non-porous surface. It would seal especially well if you spray the INSIDE of the pan, but you have to be VERY careful with surface preparation to make sure it sticks.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7633t4/=s38p3l

How was your current pan done?

A *GOOD* TIG welder should be able to make that a work of art.

We tested TIG. The clean/prepped cast pan did not like TIG at all. It is pretty porous, who knows what alloy, and will show impurity deposits in the puddle. This was being done by a GOOD tig welder. not me. Opting for.030 mig w/ 3/16" 5052. We will see this weekend ! Will post pics.
If anyone has a TIG welded pan please share your setup TIA

[JGood]

Search user name BruceBe. I believe he tig'd his and posted pics. His also leaked...

[36brua]

Search user name BruceBe. I believe he tig'd his and posted pics. His also leaked...

Thanks will chk out

[The Dark Side of Will]

We tested TIG. The clean/prepped cast pan did not like TIG at all. It is pretty porous, who knows what alloy, and will show impurity deposits in the puddle. This was being done by a GOOD tig welder. not me. Opting for.030 mig w/ 3/16" 5052. We will see this weekend ! Will post pics.
If anyone has a TIG welded pan please share your setup TIA

Interesting. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Any idea if the impurities were oil residue or metallic?

Did you try washing the entire pan in the dishwasher first?

I assume you used a SS wire brush that's only used for aluminum.

[36brua]

Interesting. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Any idea if the impurities were oil residue or metallic?

Did you try washing the entire pan in the dishwasher first?

I assume you used a SS wire brush that's only used for aluminum.

No i didn't use my dishwasher
pan was thoroughly decreased/ cleaned, run through hot washer at machine shop, re washed with straight purple power, washed with dawn dishwashing liquid. almost did put i in the DW though !

We tried TIG on fresh cut edge of piece removed from bottom of pan.
clean and SS brush used. We may try bead blast if MIG isn't good.
First I'm not a welder or metallurgist but the welder believes it is casting porosity, alloy (?) and impurities.

As JGood mentioned BruceBe did TIG his pan.
Bruce's comments today--
Yes we did TIG it, but the porosity and characteristics of the pan did dictate that we go over it twice. Basically, it was welded up, and then we let it sit overnight with fluid in it. Then, areas of leak were re-addressed.
BruceBe

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=196949

See pics

sorry a bit wordy

[The Dark Side of Will]

Thanks! It's always good to hear about someone doing things thoroughly and still having problems... serves to demonstrate what the real difficulty is.

[alco]

Is this necessary for five speed swappers?

[JGood]

Is this necessary for five speed swappers?

It has nothing to do with the transmission.

[alco]

Using stock transmission (in this case transfer case) mounts, AFAIK.

If using a ZF 310 trans with the M60, using the stock mounts would take care of the position of the transmission end... I @$$ume that the relationship of the output shaft to the trans mounts is the same between the G260 and the ZF310...

This is why I wondered if this has anything to do with the transmission selection.

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[JGood]

This is why I wondered if this has anything to do with the transmission selection.

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In that conversation, we were just discussing whether it's necessary to change the engine height or not. A transmission is a transmission... it's a 100% straight shot from front to back, so it doesn't matter which one you choose as far as drivetrain alignment. Luckily for us, both the 5 and 6 speed are able to use the factory trans brace to get the correct 'height' at the trans end... it's just a matter of extending the trans brace horizontally to reach the mounting holes, when using the 6 speed.

[alco]

Okay, pardon me.for being dense. What is the reason behind cutting a section out of the pan, just purely for the E36 steering rack?

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[JGood]

Okay, pardon me.for being dense. What is the reason behind cutting a section out of the pan, just purely for the E36 steering rack?

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Well if you were to just mount the engine as normal, using m60 mounts such as the ones from garagistic or 300mm.de, the theory is that the engine will be 20mm too high. The reason they don't make the mounts in a way that they will correctly align the engine is because the oil pan would hit the subframe and steering rack. So to correct this, they sell subframe spacers, which lower the entire subframe, and the engine attached to it. This corrects the drivetrain alighment, but changes the suspension geometry, not in a good way. In order to avoid that, I cut my pan, so I could make my own mounts that mount the engine 20mm lower, and get correct alignment.

Look at the subframe and the modifications required to it, you'll see it's more then just the steering rack that's in the way. It's the actual mounting tabs for the rack. Actually, the e30 rack may even be more in the way then an e36 rack.

[M3 euro ltw]

Yes, epoxy is non-porous. I've used this product quite a bit for engine compartment items. It goes on well and makes a hard, non-porous surface. It would seal especially well if you spray the INSIDE of the pan, but you have to be VERY careful with surface preparation to make sure it sticks.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#7633t4/=s38p3l

I had to use McMaster catalog to find the product you listed.

It says that epoxy is only good to 150 deg F.

McMaster does have some epoxy primers good to 350. Have you used the #7633t4 successfully on oilpans in hot and running engines as well?

Not trying to be a smart a--, but reading this thread makes me suddenly nervous about the welding on my pan that I farmed out. Will fill will oil shortly and watch for leaks, but would like to have a quick proven solution if need be.

Alex

[JGood]

Mine is currently leak free. After a second round of jb-weld touch ups on a few pin holes about 1k miles ago, it was still dry when I changed the oil this morning. I've got 3,500 miles now on my m60b44 / custom oil pan. All is well!