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My M60 is being a POS

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    My M60 is being a POS

    So I took may M60 E30 out for the local spring cruise and she wouldn't behave. I need help where to start diagnosing.

    I drove the car for about 1 hr highway with no problem. The first red light I stop at it stalls out at idle. I thought it was ICV valve so I kept the revs up at every stop. After about 20 mins I have no power below 1000 RPMs, then no power below 1500 RPMs, this escalated until I had to drive in very low gear at above 4000 RPM to get up any grade. I eventually stalled the car at a red light and wouldn't start. I let it sit for 20 mins and then it drove just like until I parked it.

    I left the car for 3 hrs and drove it again for 1 hr and it was fine but then it started again.

    The car feels like it is not getting any fuel below that RPM, above the RPM it feels fine the throttle response is fine and there is plenty of power.

    I was thinking there is something up with the TPS, or PCM is cutting fuel due to knock sensor signal. Maybe something is wrong with the fuel pressure regulator which is relatively new (fall last year). Maybe there is some crazy vacuum leak but the basic test of spraying throttle cleaner doesn't show anything,

    Where should I start?

    #2
    Pull check engine codes and see what the dme says

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
    OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

    Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



    Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

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      #3
      Don't have a code reader :( and they are hard to find.

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        #4
        Wire in a check engine light; a simple led light or any light will do.

        Use the Google and search m60 check engine codes

        obd1 does not have a diagnostic port; you cannot use a code reader.

        Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
        OBD1 M54/M52TU swap as a M50b25

        Z4 non powered steering rack fits e30



        Euro e46 2005/6 320d 6mt gearbox into E30 with M20 hardy and beck 1985 327s engine

        Comment


          #5
          Yeah, getting the codes read is your best bet. A small investment in the Peake R5/FCX-3 will save you lots of time and money in the future.

          Start testing everything in the fuel injection/ignition system. There are specs for the coolant temp sensor, CPS, cam sensor, TPS, ICV, coils, etc... You can test almost everything with a multimeter. That's a good, easy, free start. Then you can check fuel pressure, vacuum, maybe even do a smoke test if you get that far without finding anything.
          85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
          e30 restoration and V8 swap
          24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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