The Indiana 5.0 Swap

[The Dark Side of Will]

FYI the jagsthatrun.com diff flange is meant for the medium case diff (for when you go to make your driveshaft)

It works with any diff that has a 4 bolt flange...

[jalopi]

jesus christ, do you make it a point to be a dick in every single one of your posts/replies? it's what's listed on their website. i don't care if they ARE the same, the people capable of designing and manufacturing parts of that caliber clearly know more about the products' application than you or me. i don't know what the reason is, but they had one for not mentioning "also useable on the small case diffs" on their website.

[rwh11385]

I used 8kg springs all the way around because that is what catuned suggested for the v8 swap, i wanted 10kg front springs and 8kg rear springs but they recommended and sent 8kg springs. I'm pretty much scrapping old parts unless anyone says otherwise they want something shipped to them. I had to cut old strut tubes to send back the stock knuckles to catuned because its a 200 dollar core charge.

Why would you want 10kg/8kg springs F/R? Are you just ignoring the wheel rates?

MORE TECH:
E30 front motion ratio: .94 (the spring moves 94% of whatever distance the wheel moves)
E30 rear: .67

The actual force the wheel sees, is called the wheel-rate.
E30: .94^2 = .88 (1000lb spring gives 880lb wheel-rate)
E30 rear: .67^2 = .45 (1000lb spring gives 450lb wheel rate)

So effectively you have installed springs twice as stiff in front as in back. Hence, understeer city question.

I ran 20% stiffer in front and even 50% stiffer in front, but not that extreme. (Even if compensating for added weight that's a bit surprising) Most people run a higher numerical spring rate in the back because of the wheel rate / motion ratio.

I'm not sure why you listened to CATuned's advice. They just seem to be slanging a kit as a one-size fits all as their "optimal" setup for people who want to stance. 392/448 lbs/in on their website is crap IMO.


Moreover, you could have run stiffer springs in the back and rely on the swaybar less. But you can drive it and see how it does. Then measure the ID of the adjuster in back and buy some eibach race springs cheap used in a better rate (600 lbs/in?) and swap them out pretty easily. And then maybe unhook the rear bar to check out how it handles differently.



One of my LeMons team has family local to you so I was just curious. We're looking for spare stock calipers and such. The strut tube cores make sense but just thought I'd check on those too.