Exhaust and Radiators

[smalcol]

Hi all,
A couple questions for the folks who have running BMW v8 swaps. I just got my E3 drivable with the M62 and megasquirt. It's fricken awesome. But, it's too loud and running a bit hot.

For exhaust I have 2.5" dual pipe with an X-Pipe, back to a 2-in-2 out magnaflow. I think I'm getting a bit of resonance as it's terminating behind the rear valence right now, I plan to fix that with tips. Has anyone tried "turn down" tips? Did it make a difference? Any others with the magnaflow that found it too loud?

For radiators, I have the Mishimoto E36 radiator that is only the two row core, anyone using one of these with success? I think my tune may be a bit lean causing it to run hot as well. Trying to decide if I should just get the three row. If so, anyone want a very lightly used two row Mishimoto?

Thanks,
Seth

[JGood]

Hi all,
A couple questions for the folks who have running BMW v8 swaps. I just got my E3 drivable with the M62 and megasquirt. It's fricken awesome. But, it's too loud and running a bit hot.

For exhaust I have 2.5" dual pipe with an X-Pipe, back to a 2-in-2 out magnaflow. I think I'm getting a bit of resonance as it's terminating behind the rear valence right now, I plan to fix that with tips. Has anyone tried "turn down" tips? Did it make a difference? Any others with the magnaflow that found it too loud?

For radiators, I have the Mishimoto E36 radiator that is only the two row core, anyone using one of these with success? I think my tune may be a bit lean causing it to run hot as well. Trying to decide if I should just get the three row. If so, anyone want a very lightly used two row Mishimoto?

Thanks,
Seth

I'm running an identical exhaust setup... which part number Magnaflow are you using? Last I looked, they offer two sizes in dual 2.5" in/out. I have the larger one I believe. I don't think mine is too loud, but exhaust volume is pretty subjective...

What fan setup are you using? I can idle in humid 100 degree weather until I run out of gas with my Mishimoto Z3M, without even passing the 1/2 way mark on the gauge, and my electric fan doesn't even need to stay on, the thermostat will only kick in once every few minutes. I'd be very surprised if the difference in core thickness would make THAT much of a difference. Is it actually overheating, or just the gauge reading high? Maybe verify the ohm readings on your temp sensor at various temps? I think the Bentley has a table with the specs listed. You are using the correct e30 temp sensor to match your gauge?

Make sure your electric fan is set up properly (curved blades facing the correct way, and the polarity correct), mounted close to the radiator with little gap. I had severe overheating issues after my swap, until I found that my electric fan had the curved blades installed as a pusher from the factory, but polarity wired as a puller (yellow = ground, black = power).

[smalcol]

Hey Jgood, thanks for the reply. I have the magnaflow 12468, which I think is the smaller one. It would be more of a challenge to fit the longer one, but possible I think. I'll need to see how much longer it actually is.

I have a flex-a-lite scyclone 16" fan, It's set-up as a pusher unfortunately. (no space for a puller) I did reverse the blades before installing per the instructions and it definitely seems to be blowing through the radiator, it's mounted right on the radiator.

It isn't actually overheating, I'm just going by the reading megasquirt gives me, running around 220-230 F. It's not boiling over or making boiling sounds after I shut it down. The temp values are based off measuring the M62 sensor in some boiling water and one blog about megasquirting an E46 with a similar sensor. I'll see what's listed in the Bentley. My temp gauge isn't reading much at all from the M62 dual sensor, I might just figure out the stock specs and use some resistor inline or parallel to get it in the ballpark. So, you have another temp sensor, where did you mount it?

The other thing at play here is that I'm using the M62B44 waterpump/thermostat. The thermostat is 101 C I believe, so it's going to run warm just because of that. I would switch to the older water pump and thermostat, but the connection to the overflow reservoir is different. I assume you have the older water pump, where does your overflow bottle connect into the system?


Thanks for the help!

[JGood]

Hey Jgood, thanks for the reply. I have the magnaflow 12468, which I think is the smaller one. It would be more of a challenge to fit the longer one, but possible I think. I'll need to see how much longer it actually is.

I have a flex-a-lite scyclone 16" fan, It's set-up as a pusher unfortunately. (no space for a puller) I did reverse the blades before installing per the instructions and it definitely seems to be blowing through the radiator, it's mounted right on the radiator.

It isn't actually overheating, I'm just going by the reading megasquirt gives me, running around 220-230 F. It's not boiling over or making boiling sounds after I shut it down. The temp values are based off measuring the M62 sensor in some boiling water and one blog about megasquirting an E46 with a similar sensor. I'll see what's listed in the Bentley. My temp gauge isn't reading much at all from the M62 dual sensor, I might just figure out the stock specs and use some resistor inline or parallel to get it in the ballpark. So, you have another temp sensor, where did you mount it?

The other thing at play here is that I'm using the M62B44 waterpump/thermostat. The thermostat is 101 C I believe, so it's going to run warm just because of that. I would switch to the older water pump and thermostat, but the connection to the overflow reservoir is different. I assume you have the older water pump, where does your overflow bottle connect into the system?


Thanks for the help!

I just looked, maganflow offers 4 options in dual 2.5" in/out:

11379 - 4x9 oval, 11" long
11386 - 4x9 oval, 14" long
12468 - 5x8 oval, 18" long
12568 - 5x8 oval, 22" long

I'm using the 12468.



~220 is what the m60 was designed to run at. That's normal.

The stock e30 gauge definitely won't read correctly on the m62 sensor. My rear coolant crossover pipe between the heads has 2 bungs. One bung has the stock m60 temp sensor for the DME, the other has the stock e30 temp sensor to give the proper gauge reading.

My expansion tank connects directly to that crossover pipe as well. My radiator has a small nipple on it that feeds back to the expansion tank. Then there is the two radiator hoses, that's it. m60's don't have an extra water pump feed.

[smalcol]

OK, thanks!
That's the same muffler I'm running then. Hmm, I'll investigate tips and see what I can do.

220 it is, fair enough. A slight difference in resistance values could make it appear a little hotter to megasquirt. I drove it around some more today, no signs of overheating again, showing coolant temps between 225 and 230. Seems stable at least, maybe it's fine.

My Semi bootlegged Bentley doesn't have the electrical sections, I assume that's where the temp sensor resistor values would be.

Interesting, my B44 doesn't have any sensors or bungs back there, that I know of. It has the dual temp sensor in the waterpump and that's it.

[JGood]

OK, thanks!
That's the same muffler I'm running then. Hmm, I'll investigate tips and see what I can do.

220 it is, fair enough. A slight difference in resistance values could make it appear a little hotter to megasquirt. I drove it around some more today, no signs of overheating again, showing coolant temps between 225 and 230. Seems stable at least, maybe it's fine.

My Semi bootlegged Bentley doesn't have the electrical sections, I assume that's where the temp sensor resistor values would be.

Interesting, my B44 doesn't have any sensors or bungs back there, that I know of. It has the dual temp sensor in the waterpump and that's it.

It has the bosses, but they aren't drilled or tapped, apparently.

They should be interchangeable, or you could have yours drilled. I don't know if you'll get an accurate reading across the whole range with the m62 sensor + resistor? If you can, guess that would be easiest. I lost my e30 Bentley, or I'd look up the values for you.

m62:


m60:

[36brua]

I have an M60 B44 cross over tube as pictured above. However - It is drilled/tapped from factory, had hex plugs in it. The M60 DME and E30 temp sensor screwed right in. maybe and 'early' cross over ?

[JGood]

I have an M60 B44 cross over tube as pictured above. However - It is drilled/tapped from factory, had hex plugs in it. The M60 DME and E30 temp sensor screwed right in. maybe and 'early' cross over ?

You're right, Sept '98 was the changeover.

There's other differences as well, as far as outlet location/quantity, I believe the m60 had at least one or two different versions in addition to the two m62 versions. I think I have 3 different ones in my spare parts bin.

[smalcol]

Thanks for all the help, I'll take a look, don't remember when mine was built, but don't remember a plug being there. I believe the issue will be the gauge reading hot all the time if I used a stock sensor? That's my thought around using resistors, it probably won't be accurate, but if I can get it in the ballpark it would be useful at least. I think my car had a 85 degree thermostat originally, I assume it ran somewhere around that.

[jalopi]

Just finished making a front mount shroud - I wasn't having temp issues while put putting around town, but had some at the track. Figured maybe a shroud and some sprayers would help. Took some measurements too, you're really not getting your money's worth at low speeds without a shroud - a 16" fan only covers about 50% of the surface area of the radiator. Haven't finished aligning my pulleys yet so I haven't been able to see how much better it works at low speeds (or if it makes things worse at highway speeds) but here's some pics for you.

[jalopi]

Another nice thing about this is that you can remove the rad without messing with the fan. Used to have my fan mounted using trans cooler mounts, guess they weren't really up to the task of mounting a fan... look what they did to my rad tubes

[smalcol]

Thanks for sharing! I was actually researching shrouds today and wondering if going to that and smaller dual fans would be better. Please let us know how that performs, in my mind it seems like it's blocking airflow, but they work it seems. For an optimal setup, do you need a space between the shroud and the radiator, with the edges folded slightly in to create a seal?

Just this morning on my car, I wired up the electronic thermostat control to my fan circuit and it appears to have lowered my temps from 225ish to around 200. I had not hooked it up previously. It is definitely cooler today, but I'll drive around later and see if it maintains.

[smalcol]

And looking at your pictures again, it looks like you have the space I mentioned. I was picturing you connecting it directly to the radiator, but see you've created a pressure area. Nice work.

[JGood]

Ideally, there would be flaps in the shroud that would be pushed open by airflow at speed, since the fan is just slowing incoming air down above 40mph or so.

http://www.srbymichael.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=24/prd24.htm

That's what BMW does on their newer fan shrouds.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E53-X5-M54_3.0L/Search/64546921381/ES2091919/

But, like I said, none of this should be necessary on an m6x e30. They seem to cool themselves just fine. Even with a normal un-shrouded pusher fan. I'm even using a cheapy, low-CFM pep boys fan.

[nrubenstein]

If you are going to do a shroud like that, it's much better to make it a puller. That's going to make your cooling problems on track worse, not better.