Need some wiring help, or general info

[irrelevante30]

So I've been slowly making progress on my build, and I have hit a wall.
Moto and everything is in the car, ez-wire is in replacing the stock body harness... Can't get it to start.

Here is where I think I may have an issue, and I have searched every forum and search engine I can think of. So either I suck at searching, or the info isn't online.

I got an m60b40 that is obd1 from a friend of a friend a while ago, I want to say he had a 94? The block at some point must have been replaced because it's an Alusil block not nickasil, not sure how much that really matters though because it's all still obd1. I try looking at different diagrams I ensure the wiring is correct so I can make an adapter and get it running, but it looks like there are different diagrams for different years. Also, the engine harness was partially unplugged from the motor from when I bought it. So in summary, here is what I am trying to find out...

1. Is there a simple way to tell what harness I have, like what year?
2. Anyone able to take a pic or point out what plugs go where as far as the square connectors on the top are concerned?
3. What are the bare minimum wires needed to get the car running, keeping on mind this is in a race car that will not retain any emissions or factory gauges.

Any help is really appreciated. There is one more event this season at the end of the month and I would really like to drive it

[driftingminor913]

I will see if I can dig up some pictures of my wiring but the basics to run is fuel pump, dme power, starter power an I think that's it...

[irrelevante30]

I would appreciate it thank you

[JGood]

Schematics located here:

http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

The big green wire on pin 21 of the harness x20 plug is your DME power, which should come from your ignition switch. Pin 18 is black/yellow, that's your starter wire. Pin 13 is green/violet, that's your fuel pump signal to turn on your pumps.


On the plastic boxes above each valve cover, there is a total of 4 knock sensor plugs. These are in the center of each of those boxes, 2 per side. The knock sensors go to the plug closest to them.

On the front end of each box is another 3 pin connector. The crank sensor goes to the passenger side plug, and the cam sensor goes to the driver side plug. Make sure you don't have these mixed up. The car will not start without a crank sensor, but it will start and run fine without the cam sensor (just uses batch firing).

There are 4 plugs near the throttle body. One 2 pin connector for the IAT (sensor that goes into intake manifold just behind the throttle body on the passenger side). The white 3 pin connector goes to the ICV. The black 3 pin connector with the push-style quick release clip goes to the TPS on the throttle body. The black 3 pin connector with the fuel injector style bitch clip that you need a pick to remove, goes to the ASC throttle body position sensor (not needed).

MAF connector should be obvious, it's the only round plug. The 2-pin connector down near the alternator is the oil pressure warning light plug that goes into the filter housing (not needed).

There are two 2-pin plugs near the firewall for the coolant sensors. I forget which is which, but the car should start without the DME coolant temp signal, unless you're in extreme temps, although it may struggle a bit.

There is a ground wire on the engine side of the big rubber harness grommet, and a red power wire on the other side of the grommet. Both of these need connected. The power should be fused, as it is from the factory, to protect the DME. Make sure you also have your main ground strap from the chassis to the engine in place.

That should be about it to get you running. We'd need more info to know why it's not starting. Is the main relay getting 12v? Is it cranking over? Do you have fuel and/or spark?