'89 316i E30 LS1 Swap Build Thread

[Q8y_drifter]

So I finally figured out why the headers seem harder to install than I assumed. I ordered 1-3/4" headers but received 1-7/8" by mistake. Would cost me a ton to return them so I said fuck it and installed them anyway.

For anyone installing 1-7/8" headers, if the engine is already sitting in the bay you're gonna need to do the following to install the driver's side header:

1) Remove driver's side valve cover+coils
2) Remove driver's side plugs
3) Remove fuel rail
4) Loosen mounts and lift engine as far as possible (if possible pull engine towards passenger side).
5) Hammer the driver's side shock tower brace

After over 3 hours I finally got that side in. It's a damn tight fit. One of the primaries is touching the frame rail.

Passenger side header is stupid easy in comparison. I highly suggest you place the passenger side header, thread the header bolts and keep them loose, and THEN install the starter. MUCH easier this way.

[Q8y_drifter]

Thanks.

So I tried the driver's side header today. It's a real bitch that one, even with the valve cover and plugs removed. I'm gonna try lifting the engine on the driver's side. Might give me just enough clearance.

If anyone got any tips on how to do it without banging everything in the way with a BFH please lmk.

[z28]

Nice build, let us know how the brakes feel with the new setup. Thanks for the pics and info on how the swap is going, I know I'm gonna reference this when the time comes for my swap.

[Q8y_drifter]

These are the two areas where the trans interferes with the tunnel

[Q8y_drifter]

Cross member bolted up





This tunnel brace might require a little cutting to clear the DS flange



Final shifter position



SS braided clutch line from Wilwood pedal box through AC hole in tunnel and into bellhousing

[Q8y_drifter]

Been a while since I last updated this thread. I got the car painted and the engine/trans in. Also installed the Garagistic booster delete kit with Wilwood pedal assembly and masters. Fabbed up new hard lines for the front brakes. Gonna do the rears once I figure out my hydro ebrake.

Few notes for anyone attempting this swap in the future. I wish I knew this info beforehand.

1) The shifter stick does not align with the shifter hole. It sits about 2-3" back. This is for the F-Body T56 on a factory style shifter. I test fit the driveshaft and trans cross member and everything lines up okay so it's definitely installed the way it should, therefore I ended up cutting the shifter hole to accommodate.

2) The tranny rubs the tunnel where the tailshaft housing and the trans case meet. Also the reverse lockout solenoid hits the tunnel quite a bit. Gonna have to lower it, massage the tunnel and try again. I'll get pics of where the interference happens tomorrow. There's also a good chance that the factory tunnel brace situated right above the trans output shaft will have to be cut to clear the trans/driveshaft flange.

3) As for the headers, the passenger side takes all of 5 seconds to slide into position. Just unscrew the oil filler neck for clearance, no need to remove the valve covers. The driver's side however is a pain. Gonna install that tomorrow and see what needs to be done to clear everything.

Here's a pic as it sits now.

[garretvs]

Try partsgeek.com for a 2010 Mustang:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2006/ford/mustang/body_electrical/back_up_light_switch.html

Check the Bimmerforums thread for others who have used this switch. Solder or attach via ring lugs wires to the threaded posts on the switch. Cover with JB weld.

[shiboujin]

got a link or part number for that reverse light switch?

[garretvs]

Got my freshly rebuilt T56 trans from Astro Performance yesterday.

Get the reverse switch that Ford uses on their T56 cars -- its connector is turned 90degs downwards (does not stick straight out like the GM one), and makes hookup of the reverse light easy.

Also cut off the three projections around the switch -- they are only there to protect the switch from breaking off when a power train is installed on the factory assembly line.

[Q8y_drifter]

The E30 is still stripped down at the shop. Rust fixed. Getting sprayed next week.




In the meantime I picked up this medium case diff from the scrapyard to replace my little small case. Pretty clean for a diff out of a wrecked Z3. It's a 3.91 Torsen LSD diff IIRC. Also picked up another identical diff and a clean 031 Z3 1.9L rack as a spare. Came out to less than $300 in parts.

[Braziliangabriel]

Awesome work! I'll be doing this swap to my car hopefully later this year!

[Q8y_drifter]

damn... that t56 must been $$$$$$$
so jelly

It's not a built T56, just rebuilt by Astro. Did cost quite a bit though, especially having it shipped from the US. I've spent a ton shipping a lot of stuff across the pond :(

[obes]

damn... that t56 must been $$$$$$$
so jelly

[CorvallisBMW]

Gotta love shiny new parts :)

[Q8y_drifter]

Yeah I've been slacking off lately. Busy with work and all.

Car is currently at the painters getting fixed for rust damage and getting a fresh coat of Alpine white paint. Gonna take a couple weeks before it's done. Still got more parts on the way. Gonna finish off the heads, install the intake manifold and accessories soon.

These arrived a few days back.

CATuned 4340 axles
Wilwood reverse mount boosterless pedal box
Garagistic bracket and subframe reinforcements.