Project: Spielereien. AKA "The dumpster fire"

[Zacm829]

Awesome, good info on the oil pressures. Mine was in that range until I added the oil cooler which increased pressure. Swap is looking good though! I ended up ordering my panel from Jaywood on here.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ter+vent+panel

[delamaize]

Oil pressure gauge is installed. That answered lots of questions. When cold, at idle, I'm throwing 55-60 lbs of Oil pressure. So that confirms what I thought before, my oil pressure light was because of bad sensors.

I'll get some pictures up soon.

EDIT: Because I had such a hard time finding what Normal Oil pressure is suppose to be, I'll post what I eventually found here:

Normal Idle, when at operating temp should be no less than 0.5 BAR, or about 7.25 PSI.
Max pressure when at speed shouldn't exceed 4.5 BAR, or about 65.25 PSI.

If you're less than 8 PSI at idle, you should be thinking about checking the pump housing bolts in the oil pan.
and if you're over 65, the pressure regulator in the pump is shot. From what I am gathering, anything between those 2 pressures is good to go, Naturally, the closer to that magic 65 the better.

Just for a point of reference, Mine is running at 12-15 psi at idle, at operating temp, and 55-60 psi at anything over 1500 RPM.

EDIT 2:
Got off my fat ass, and took some pictures. Vent mount is not done yet, and my dash was already slightly warped at the center vent, but it's functional.

EDIT 3:
Picture links died for some freaking reason, Picture code removed.

[delamaize]

Some new things have shown their faces! and good things this time! It's no longer throwing O2 sensor codes. I am only getting 1263 now.

That is a purge valve for the charcoal canister/fuel tank vent. I don't have one, never had one, and the wiring is not even there. I know it pins to 36 on the x6000 plug, but it's a 2 wire valve, and I'm not sure where the other wire goes.

Does anyone know if their is a way to make the ECU think that valve is there? or is their a way to program it our of the ECU?

[delamaize]

Good idea running an oil pressure gauge, I installed one as well as a coolant temperature gauge where the center vent used to be. A good piece of mind to have indication just in case.

Thats my plan also, what vent replacement panel did you use?

[Zacm829]

Good idea running an oil pressure gauge, I installed one as well as a coolant temperature gauge where the center vent used to be. A good piece of mind to have indication just in case.

[delamaize]

Update: Bad sensor. Tested and installed the 2nd oil pressure sensor I had, Light turned off. Oil pressure is good. I'm still using this as an excuse to put an oil pressure gauge.

this is the setup I'm probably going to go with.

http://prosportgauges.com/amber-white-premium-oil-pressure-gauge.aspx

Using this, tapped into the AN fittings close to the motor.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-670343/overview/

Now I just gotta figure out where I'm going to put it in the cab....

[delamaize]

Well, Fuck.

On the way home today, the dumpster fire had the oil pressure light come on.
Doesn't go off with higher RPM, Shut it down, restart, after a few seconds, light comes back on. No unusual noises, no ticks, no knocks, nothing.....

When it cool down to cold, and restarted for a second, oil light comes on very dim....

Not sure whats going on, Symptoms don't match the oil pump bolts issue. I'm going to drop the pan, check the pump anyways, and re-torque, and locktite things while I'm in there. I'm also going to look into installing a oil pressure sensor and gauge, and a oil cooler while I am at it.

Fucking christ, I hope this is just something stupid.....

[jpod999]

It was worth it, It was SOOOO WORTH IT. This thing pulls like a train. Easily breaks'em loose in 1st and 2nd, 3rd in the wet. The sound alone is worth it. I drive it as much as I can. Their isn't a time that I don't have a smile on my face when I turn that key.

:bow::bow:

[delamaize]

So after driving it for a few months what do you think, was all the work worth it?

(even if the answer is no, please just say yes, I don't think my sanity can take it ;) )

It was worth it, It was SOOOO WORTH IT. This thing pulls like a train. Easily breaks'em loose in 1st and 2nd, 3rd in the wet. The sound alone is worth it. I drive it as much as I can. Their isn't a time that I don't have a smile on my face when I turn that key.

[jpod999]

So after driving it for a few months what do you think, was all the work worth it?

(even if the answer is no, please just say yes, I don't think my sanity can take it ;) )

[delamaize]

Made a new bottom radiator hose yesterday, to solve a coolant leak. Kinda solved the leak, It slowed it down to almost nothing. I think the hose side of the thermostat housing is cracked, or at the least seeping.

In other fronts, I had my o2 sensors wired up backwards, I have the wired up right now, but I'm still throwing codes. I'm not sure what the effect of the signal wires being backwards on the sensors, but I'm thinking that it may have screwed up the sensors. I'm looking in to switching to the ford sensors, since they are a ton cheaper, and easier to find.

I'm looking towards the future plans for the swap, now that I've had it in the car and been driving it since june. It's become very apparent, I need to upgrade the brakes, wheels and tires. I need to get my Inline bias adjuster put in, and i need to pull the pedal cluster, and get it modified to allow the remote adjuster for the bias bar to be attached and room for it to move. Coilovers are going to be a MUST. the H&R race springs are ok for now, but I need the adjustability. Eventually, probably sometime over the winter, I'm going to bring it back in the garage, and the drivetrain is coming back out. I got some changes I want to make, like getting rid of the plumbing parts that I used for the coolant system on the back of the motor. I want to get a Garagistic Reinforced front subframe, I'd like to get rid of all the under hood brackets that are not being used. Garagistic also is making a cover for the old Master cylinder hole, that has brake line pass thoughts, and reservoir pass thought, that I would like to use also. The BIG thing I want back is the power steering. I don't mind the manual steering, but for drivability, I want the power back. As for the paint....Nope....this one is staying with the dumpster fire look.

The car it's self has a branded title, it had been hit in the right rear, and was repaired long before I got my hands on it. It's strait, and the body work is ok. Overall, I'm happy with it, but that title is going to haunt me forever. Eventually, I'd like to get a touring, and put this swap into that car, but that's a long time off.

[hotpantz]

sounds good. good work

[delamaize]

Decided it was time to make a good, hard pull. It seemed to stick in 4th a little, and I ran out of space. Shot somewhere in "Mexico"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bIkmtJh6OjI

[delamaize]

Did some more things today. Went around to a few junk yards looking for other M60 to compare icv valve resistance readings to the one I have. Didn't have much luck, although I did score this m62 engine cover and mounts. Little bit of hacking and it fits like a glove. I think I'm going to paint the cover. I'm not 100% decided what I want to do. Although I have thought about painting the gray areas the same color as my head covers, painting the entire Center area black, and then painting the ribs the mtech colors, and the roundel your normal colors. Also I managed to get the last of the pieces I needed to put the high beam back in on the right side.

[delamaize]

Looking great, glad to hear you made your deadline! I still need to hookup my CEL on my swap. Hopefully I can get the stomp test to work as well!

The stomp test worked for me right off the bat. turn the key to position 2, Run, then full accelerator to full closed 5 times in 5 seconds. Be sure to try to make your "stomps" as close to 5 seconds total, as you can. if you do it too fast, it doesn't go into stomp mode. with mine, I had to stomp 5 times after every code to advance it to the next code. once you get the 1000 code, push and hold the accelerator for at least 10 seconds to reset the codes.

It's really nice to have this, and I got lucky with my car having the light and wiring already in the car, and wired though the C101.

EDIT: I'm not sure if this works with the M62, I wanna say it's only a OBD1 thing.....