regular old m60 swap

[dothadance]

pan looks good. I suggest doing a leak test for at least 24 hr. trust me on this !!

Thanks for the tip. Been soaking for 30 min or so and can already see a couple leaks.

[dothadance]

This is where I sourced fittings from. Save yourself some time. not sure but I thought Garagistic is selling the 90* fittings now ?

the 3/16" tube is used in place of the 10mm. all threads are mm except for master cyldrs
3/16" tube CUNIFER .028 25 FT $30.00 amazon
90* el 1/8" MPT x 10 mm FEMALE BUBBLE FLARE 3 $12.00 PACIFIC CUSTOMS
Male nut 10.0 x 1.0 12 pak $13.20 FEDHILL
Union F x F 10.0 x 1.0 6 $7.50

PACIFIC CUSTOMS http://www.pacificcustoms.com/brakes.html
FEDHILL http://www.fedhillusa.com/

yeah, they do sell the fittings. i didn't think much about it at the time. ALRIGHT, SO, since i already have my brake lines (copper/nickel) i'm going to buy the 1/8Npt Male To 10Mm-1.0 Female Bubble Flare fitting (adapter from master cylinder to brake line fitting). and the brake line hardware to match that is the male 10mmx1.0, and that will connect everything. not sure what "Union F x F 10.0 x 1.0 6 $7.50" is, but this was a boatload of help, thank you. i would call myself pretty competent at searching things, but i just could not find anything on my own.

[36brua]

someone school me on brake fittings. so my m/c's are 1/8-27, so i need 1/8-27 to 3/16th's adapters? (3/16's is line size?). what line fitting would match that? i'm not worried about the flare, i just have no idea how to attach my brake lines to my m/c's lol. and can i get this shit from oreillys or autozone or whatever... maybe ill just go there and ask someone what's up and hope that it's that 1 in a million chance that they will actually be helpful.

This is where I sourced fittings from. Save yourself some time. not sure but I thought Garagistic is selling the 90* fittings now ?

the 3/16" tube is used in place of the 10mm. all threads are mm except for master cyldrs
3/16" tube CUNIFER .028 25 FT $30.00 amazon
90* el 1/8" MPT x 10 mm FEMALE BUBBLE FLARE 3 $12.00 PACIFIC CUSTOMS
Male nut 10.0 x 1.0 12 pak $13.20 FEDHILL
Union F x F 10.0 x 1.0 6 $7.50

PACIFIC CUSTOMS http://www.pacificcustoms.com/brakes.html
FEDHILL http://www.fedhillusa.com/

[dothadance]

someone school me on brake fittings. so my m/c's are 1/8-27, so i need 1/8-27 to 3/16th's adapters? (3/16's is line size?). what line fitting would match that? i'm not worried about the flare, i just have no idea how to attach my brake lines to my m/c's lol. and can i get this shit from oreillys or autozone or whatever... maybe ill just go there and ask someone what's up and hope that it's that 1 in a million chance that they will actually be helpful.

[slammin.e28]

Yeah, I learned from an older gentleman I work with who's been working on German cars for 30+ years....and he knows German.

That's my car in the pic....I'm running ABS with the Wilwood pedals. Haven't driven it enough to see if it works....but the only thing that changed was having a booster....so it should.

[dothadance]

They are labeled with the first letter of the German words Forward (Vorwärts)....



....and Behind (Hinter).

hell yeah brother! definitely never would have figured that out hahaha.

[slammin.e28]

regular old m60 swap

They are labeled with the first letter of the German words Forward (Vorwärts)....



....and Behind (Hinter).

[dothadance]

I have this set up w/ ABS. just make sure the bias bar is neutral ( equal f//r). adjustment once installed is next to impossible..

This is why I wanted to know before hand lol.

Brakes are stock until later in the future.

[dothadance]

yes. any liquid. low viscosity oil - used is ok ,or just water.
My fabricator has a lot of experience welded in/out and we ended up with a pin hole. Which became obvious after engine was in car and running....

My pan is also welded inside and out. But I will see do a test. Thanks for the heads up!

[36brua]

So i removed the two lines that went to the old m/c from the abs pump and have since realized I have no clue as to which line was for my front and which one is for my rear brakes.

Or if it even works like that! I'm hoping that it does (so I can set the bias bar appropriately)... Abs delete and booster deletes are pretty common, but I can't seem to find any info on the garagistic delete and keeping abs If anyone has any info, lemme know. I'll keep looking.

I have this set up w/ ABS. just make sure the bias bar is neutral ( equal f//r). I set pedal ht to full ht keeping full thread engagement of slave cyl push rod in clevis. adjustment once installed is next to impossible. Are you keeping the stk 'proportioning' valve to rear brakes ? At the least you may want to add a BBK kit on the front.

[36brua]

What would that entail? Fill it up with oil and let is sit?

yes. any liquid. low viscosity oil - used is ok ,or just water.
My fabricator has a lot of experience welded in/out and we ended up with a pin hole. Which became obvious after engine was in car and running....

[dothadance]

So i removed the two lines that went to the old m/c from the abs pump and have since realized I have no clue as to which line was for my front and which one is for my rear brakes.

Or if it even works like that! I'm hoping that it does (so I can set the bias bar appropriately)... Abs delete and booster deletes are pretty common, but I can't seem to find any info on the garagistic delete and keeping abs If anyone has any info, lemme know. I'll keep looking.

[dothadance]

pan looks good. I suggest doing a leak test for at least 24 hr. trust me on this !!

What would that entail? Fill it up with oil and let is sit?

[36brua]

pan looks good. I suggest doing a leak test for at least 24 hr. trust me on this !!

[dothadance]

Picked up 10ft of copper/nickel tubing on the old grocery getter. Going to try and keep my ABS.


And I got my pan back!

she's a beauty!