Boosterless master suggestions?

[e30_302]

You're not going to accomplish anything by going from 17 to 17.5, try a 19.

You might be surprised on the sensitivity thing. Ever driven a real race car? The pedal is rock hard. You have more sensitivity and precision with force vs distance pushed. Trust me, that's why I'm going bigger. That's not to say it's "best," especially on a street driven car.

Here's my hack job (doesn't show it all that well) - the cleaner look would be two reservoirs.

[shiboujin]

I can always go back to a 19. But right now, with stock calipers and stock pads, I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop quickly. I squat too so.. I don't think normal people could do it.

[e30_302]

Pads will make a big difference. See what you can find with more cold torque.

[shiboujin]

Very true. I'm also super cheap. This master was $20 shipped lol.

[Stvstr]

I was on rockauto.com and looked up a 78 VW rabbit. The bore is listed as "11/16" and "non power brakes". I suppose it's 17.5mm and not 17mm like yours?

I actually don't mind too much stroke. It allows me more sensitivity when left foot braking. How did you do your reservoir setup? I'm still completely baffled on that one.

No pics, sorry, but I can describe it. I fabbed a bracket to hold the original BMW reservoir as high as possible and in front of the shock tower. Home Depot had some brass adapters that thread tight into the reservoir outlets and have a male end that flexible hose will fit over. I used some JB weld on the threads before threading the adapters into the reservoir.

For the m/c I went to an indy VW garage and picked up hose rated for brake fluid, the little plastic tubes that push into the m/c and the black rubber grommets that push into the m/c. VW grommets will fit into the m/c after you pull out the 914 ones. Or you can trim the 914 grommets to fit the VW tubes.
All of this allowed me to use the original clutch fluid feed as well.

[Stvstr]

Pads will make a big difference. See what you can find with more cold torque.

Any suggestions? I like my HP+ pads, but there's probably better out there.

[e30_302]

Can't really help you there, we run Raybestos ST47's but that's a hardcore race pad, probably wouldn't be very appropriate for the street. I would think whatever it marketed towards autocross would work best.

[shiboujin]

The Rabbit master came in. Definitely won't fit the factory E30 res. I knew that part was a long shot. I need to see if the factory plunger will fit. Seems too small though. Anyone got a handle on how I can plug up the two unused ports? What are these two pressure switches for? Wonder if i can wire them in.

Wish I had time to pop this in. Trying to kill a parts car first.

[e30_302]

You can buy flared plugs.

Lots of old master cylinders used a pressure switch to activate the brake lights. It's finicky and unreliable, don't go that route.

[lemansguy]

just stopping in to say im following your posts on the booster-less setup. Looking forward to your results. LS swap is in my future. money is already set aside for the motor and trans, just waiting till after i move next summer to buy them.

[shiboujin]

You aren't too far away. You can always take a visit up here and I can brain dump on you over dinner and a beer.

[lemansguy]

sounds good to me, car talk with beer is always a good time. we will have to make something happen after the holidays

[shiboujin]

Sounds good to me!

[redlightpete]

I can always go back to a 19. But right now, with stock calipers and stock pads, I have to stand on the brakes to get the car to stop quickly. I squat too so.. I don't think normal people could do it.

When you say 'stock pads', do you mean actual BMW pads? Some aftermarket 'stock replacement' or even 'performance' pads have less friction, especially when cold.

[shiboujin]

autozone specials.